Sputtering at 4k RPM AND BEYOND - Page 2 - Hyundai Elantra Sport Turbo Forum
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by RynoResumes View Post
This tube where I have a red arrow pointing to has a crack in it from where the clamp was. I think the stupid mechanic at the dealer moved the clamp and now theres a crack in that tube. Not sure what it goes to
It is a part of the vehicle's evaporative emissions system, which is designed to capture and recirculate evaporative emission from the fuel back into the engine bay. It is the job of the EVAP vent solenoid to allow air into the charcoal canister so that the EVAP system can pressurize and function properly.

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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 10:22 AM
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Having a crack in the EVAP line is definitely problematic and should be addressed. When you say the RPMs "bounce", what do you mean? How far does it "bounce" and how frequently? Posting a video clip of it might help.
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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The rpm are jumping 250 to 500rpm constantly as the turbo gets hot. It only seems to do it as I continue to get on the car over and over and over for a period of time. Then the power starts to cut off a little and the rpm gauge jumps and the car jerks me back n forth in the seat a bit. Im taking back to dealer to have him look at it. I am really going to run through it with him this time.
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 04:00 AM
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This is what happens when you try fiddling with your engine. Every time people have issues with engine performance it’s because they try to increase performance with the aftermarket parts that are not designed to work with this application. When are people going to learn ?
If you want a maximum performance machine buy a Porsche or a Ferrari or some other high-performance machine that is designed to work with these aftermarket parts but, a Hyundai? You’ve got to be kidding me.
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 11:10 AM
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This is what happens when you try fiddling with your engine. Every time people have issues with engine performance it’s because they try to increase performance with the aftermarket parts that are not designed to work with this application. When are people going to learn ?
If you want a maximum performance machine buy a Porsche or a Ferrari or some other high-performance machine that is designed to work with these aftermarket parts but, a Hyundai? You’ve got to be kidding me.
What the **** are you talking about lol, yeah he added performance and due to that he's getting this issue but it's a $150 upgrade needed to hold his boost.

LAP3 just hit a 400WHP Elantra sport with ROOM to upgrade it.

Veloster N's are getting faster and faster with the aftermarket parts. KIA coming out with V6TT's with LAP3 are pushing 500-600 AWHP. For 1/4 of the price of those performance cars. If you do it right you should be fine. Idk why having a Hyundai is an issue when they're by far the highest gained reputation car manufacturer in the last 5 years.

At this rate give it 10 years and you'll be switching your words from "a Hyundai are you kidding me?" To "why don't you get a performance car like a Hyundai" (okay maybe not Lambo or Ferrari levels)
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vector6787 View Post
This is what happens when you try fiddling with your engine. Every time people have issues with engine performance itís because they try to increase performance with the aftermarket parts that are not designed to work with this application. When are people going to learn ?
If you want a maximum performance machine buy a Porsche or a Ferrari or some other high-performance machine that is designed to work with these aftermarket parts but, a Hyundai? Youíve got to be kidding me.
I'm not going to tolerate trolling of this sort on this forum. No one here is looking for "maximum performance". I'm not sure if you're aware, but there is a ton of middle ground between "stock" and "maximum performance". You just put down most of the people who post here with your "You've got to be kidding me" line. If you don't want to mod your car, fine, but you're not going to bash people here who do. This isn't an invitation to argue - this is the end of this discussion.
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vector6787 View Post
This is what happens when you try fiddling with your engine. Every time people have issues with engine performance itís because they try to increase performance with the aftermarket parts that are not designed to work with this application. When are people going to learn ?
If you want a maximum performance machine buy a Porsche or a Ferrari or some other high-performance machine that is designed to work with these aftermarket parts but, a Hyundai? Youíve got to be kidding me.
My guess is that it's the stock EBCS solenoid that is crapping out on him. It can do that with or without modifications on the car because it's a crap piece. Upgrading it can benefit you modded or not.

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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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Im taking back to dealer on Monday to run it with them again. As mentioned I only have a K&N cold air intake on the car and the car when gets hot the car starts to sputter and the power cuts out and jerks me in the car. I am going to run it hard multiple times to get this issue to pop up for the mechanic so he can figure out what the **** is going on. I can't imagine the Cold air intake has anything to do with the car. It's probably as you guys have mentioned something to do with the turbo controller.
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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 05:56 PM
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I had a similar issue, check your spark plugs are all ok. Check the ceramic insulator and gaps.

Mods: Bridgestone Potenza RE003 tyres, de-badged, grounding kit, Pioneer under seat sub, custom 3.5" Intake w/ AEM Dry Flow pod filter, MAC EBCS, 2.5" mandrel bent straight pipe from CAT, Magnaflow muffler, HKS M40XL plugs, Tork Stage 0+ Tune. 152KW 380NM ATW
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RynoResumes View Post
Im taking back to dealer on Monday to run it with them again. As mentioned I only have a K&N cold air intake on the car and the car when gets hot the car starts to sputter and the power cuts out and jerks me in the car. I am going to run it hard multiple times to get this issue to pop up for the mechanic so he can figure out what the **** is going on. I can't imagine the Cold air intake has anything to do with the car. It's probably as you guys have mentioned something to do with the turbo controller.
When the EBCS gets hot they start to leak, I've felt it on my car when driving for a while, the post are right replace your EBCS, R1600turbo is right!
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