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Has anyone tried this new module from aFe? They state you will get +38 HP and +54 Torque to include not leaving any trace on the ECU (No Footprint). I'm trying to do basic upgrades for a little more power on the stock platform.

Look forward to the responses.
I would jump on that actually, a buddy of mine did that on a Subaru WRX. This was before he did a Cobb Tune and was happy. If you call aFe, I’m sure they will give you more clarification.
 

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Tork,

I'm concerned about warranty issues. I'd love to make more power especially out the gate. the car lags in the beginning then gets up and goes.
Any tuner that offers a spare ECU (I think just BTR and Lap3) are good for warranty because your original ECU stays intact.
 

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I have an aFe axleback and am pleased with the workmanship. I wouldn't get a piggyback module because I'd rather just get a tune, but I'm sure it does its job fine.
 

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Has anyone tried this new module from aFe? They state you will get +38 HP and +54 Torque to include not leaving any trace on the ECU (No Footprint). I'm trying to do basic upgrades for a little more power on the stock platform.

Look forward to the responses.
I have seen the AFE Module, but not sure if it will hurt the engine and show codes.
I would like to get one but have not seen many reviews on it
 

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I put one on my GTS a few days ago. After a 3 week back order I was very excited. We only have 91 octane here is Cali, so I see a decent difference on sport+ mode (the module's mode) when my car is on it's own Sport mode too. Crisper turbo response and boost build. Possibly a placebo, but even on Module's green stock mode and mine on normal drive mode, I feel less turbo lag.

Hardest part of the whole install was routing the switch wire through the firewall. I had to drop the TCU and the TCU bracket (under the steering column) and removed the grommet with the hood cable. I ran the switch wire through the hole and then filled it with silicon.

I have ran the module on "Race" mode with my car in Sport and it's a whole new animal of a car. Absolutely worth it to me. I have k&n air filter (stock intake) and aFe axle back exhaust.
 

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Just FYI to anyone running this thing, AFE recommends using 93 octane on race mode. Per the AFE rep on facebook:

I was talking to the engineers about the Scorcher for the Elantra specifically today and they said for the Sport and Sport+ settings you’ll want to run 91 Octane. For Race mode you’ll want 93 Octane. Performance spark plugs and Octane boosters are helpful but not required.
 

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Am i the only person thats REALLY concerned about the ultra lean tip-in until the computer is able to compensate? They hit full throttle at 2400rpm and its making a lot of power in a dangerous air/fuel range all the way until 3500rpm.
 

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Am i the only person thats REALLY concerned about the ultra lean tip-in until the computer is able to compensate? They hit full throttle at 2400rpm and its making a lot of power in a dangerous air/fuel range all the way until 3500rpm.
As long as it start to richen up to a safe level you should be 👌! Remember current data is not the same as live data it just might be a delay.
 

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Does anyone know if the Module from AFE will put out codes or damage your engine
I got 1 check engine ( exhaust manifold pressure)


I was at race mode WOT climbing a hill. clear the code never happen after.


I am running a injen intake and have no downpipe. Cannot have 93 octane grade fuel over here, I mix 16 onz of torco race fuel on 91 shell blend.


IF you are planning to get this module, keep in mind that those parts are Highly recommended ---) 5W40 full synthetic + a set of HKS plug + OCC


It should not damage your engine, AFE are making this module for many brand and models for few years now
 

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As long as it start to richen up to a safe level you should be 👌! Remember current data is not the same as live data it just might be a delay.
An engine will fail just as easily due to a lean spike on tip-in (engine in boost) as it will going lean after sustained wide-open throttle. I'm still uneasy about that scenario. It might not be as big of a deal on a DCT car, but every time you shift with a manual transmission car, its going to get this spike.
 

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As long as it start to richen up to a safe level you should be 👌! Remember current data is not the same as live data it just might be a delay.
An engine will fail just as easily due to a lean spike on tip-in (engine in boost) as it will going lean after sustained wide-open throttle. I'm still uneasy about that scenario. It might not be as big of a deal on a DCT car, but every time you shift with a manual transmission car, its going to get this spike.
You will not hurt your engine because of a spike that's why you have a knock sensor! You hurt you're motor because way too much boost and or not enough octane.
 

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Hey, its your engine, not mine. But with your reliance on the knock sensor means that it must first knock to some degree in order to then adjust. Add that to the fact the cylinder (now at full boost and in the 13s air fuel) is now much hotter due to the lean condition.
 

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Hey, its your engine, not mine. But with your reliance on the knock sensor means that it must first knock to some degree in order to then adjust. Add that to the fact the cylinder (now at full boost and in the 13s air fuel) is now much hotter due to the lean condition.
Once the knock sees any kind of detonation it's going to pull your timing back! Now if you start detonating at 13 lb of boost there's something seriously wrong with your car!
 

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Hey, its your engine, not mine. But with your reliance on the knock sensor means that it must first knock to some degree in order to then adjust. Add that to the fact the cylinder (now at full boost and in the 13s air fuel) is now much hotter due to the lean condition.
Once the knock sees any kind of detonation it's going to pull your timing back! You should not be anywhere near those numbers unless there's something wrong with your car!
 
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