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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My question, what kind of brakes do you recommend for the car since the front need to be replaced and if I go to performance do you all recommend upgrading calipers as well or just brake and rotors? I'd like high quality performance that last a while and perform well and leave little dust. I don't know who makes good parts for hyundai elantra sport so figured I'd ask you all.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Please shoot me ideas and what you all recommend for me to do. Should I do performance just front or do I have to do whole car and who makes good brakes and rotors and things for our cars? Please send websites and recommendations of set-ups that you'd do for your car or you'd recommend for my car

Thanks

Ryan
 

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I've used the powerstop z series pads on their blanks with previous vehicles and have been really impressed. I an on using them for the es when due. Others have been happy with EBC and Centric
 

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2018 Elantra Sport 6MT Electric Blue
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My question, what kind of brakes do you recommend for the car since the front need to be replaced and if I go to performance do you all recommend upgrading calipers as well or just brake and rotors? I'd like high quality performance that last a while and perform well and leave little dust. I don't know who makes good parts for hyundai elantra sport so figured I'd ask you all.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Please shoot me ideas and what you all recommend for me to do. Should I do performance just front or do I have to do whole car and who makes good brakes and rotors and things for our cars? Please send websites and recommendations of set-ups that you'd do for your car or you'd recommend for my car

Thanks

Ryan
what mileage are you at? im at 52k and so far so good I don't hear any noises or feel any weakness it's still very strong brakes on my car so I'm just wondering so I can gauge my own brake wear thank you
 

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R1 Concepts for good quality OEM replacement. Unless you are doing spirited driving on the regular, you don't really need different calipers.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
what mileage are you at? im at 52k and so far so good I don't hear any noises or feel any weakness it's still very strong brakes on my car so I'm just wondering so I can gauge my own brake wear thank you
43k. But im running around town more and constantly seem to be stopping and going. My rotors are warped in the front too. I can tell when the wheel shakes super bad when I hit the brakes on the highway at around 50 or above.
 

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Ryan, if you don't want to brake the bank and have an improvement on stopping power leaving the stock calipers I will do EBC red stuff and new good quality coated rotor. I swapped my pads with the EBC red stuff and wow the stopping power was dramatically increased and the distance for emergency stop was reduced. Just make sure you follow the braking process as mandated by EBC.

Here is the part number and description:
EBC Brakes DP33053C Redstuff Ceramic Brake Pad
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ryan, if you don't want to brake the bank and have an improvement on stopping power leaving the stock calipers I will do EBC red stuff and new good quality coated rotor. I swapped my pads with the EBC red stuff and wow the stopping power was dramatically increased and the distance for emergency stop was reduced. Just make sure you follow the braking process as mandated by EBC.

Here is the part number and description:
EBC Brakes DP33053C Redstuff Ceramic Brake Pad
I'll take a look at those. Thanks for the information.
 

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Ryan, if you don't want to brake the bank and have an improvement on stopping power leaving the stock calipers I will do EBC red stuff and new good quality coated rotor. I swapped my pads with the EBC red stuff and wow the stopping power was dramatically increased and the distance for emergency stop was reduced. Just make sure you follow the braking process as mandated by EBC.

Here is the part number and description:
EBC Brakes DP33053C Redstuff Ceramic Brake Pad
Red Stuff is a racing pad. Wouldn't recommend those for the street. Maybe Yellow Stuff, but actually recommend Green over both of those for street.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I bought the red stuff. The yellow are track pads. The red are for more aggressive driving and stopping. I did my research and based on my driving style the red are perfect for me. I also bought a set of drilled and slotted power
stop rotors for the front. I'm going with oem rotors in the rear though. I have reached out to multiple people and performance shops and read reviews and everything and the red stuff are not that bad. The yellow are strictly track based. And then EBC has some higher performance pads above these as well that are for true performance that are ridiculously pricey. I'll let you know how the red stuff work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I heard about this too. But the company that manufactures these are supposedly really good. They are rated top 5 rotor manufacturer company out there. Bosch, Brembo, these and a couple others were on that list rated out of 5. These were rated 4.6 out of 5. But they could snap if I don't break them in correctly with the pads. I need to pull up the document that explains how to break in pads and rotors. I think the first step is to drive to 40 and put the car in N and let it slow itself down to 5. Do this again to 35 and repeat previous process and then the last step is something more aggressive. But the best way to keep these in great health is to break them and the pads in correctly. The friction from pads and the rotors is so hot so the holes and slots create air flow to cool down the pads and rotors and seat them I believe. As long as I do this correctly the pads and rotors should not warp, Crack or break for at least 30k miles. Probably longer. I'm hoping if I stop driving like an idiot doing a 130 on the highways on and off at times that the pads may last 60k. 🙃.

I do love this car though, just wish the throttle punch was harder. You tap the peddle in a muscle car and the rpm climbs. In this car you tap the pedal and it barely trickles up above 1K. I'm still excited to do some more work on this car as the powertran expires in another 5 years. Probably do an aftermarket clutch, flywheel.
 

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Unless you are doing track days or pushing the car really hard in some form or another, drilled are honestly overkill.

And welcome to drive by wire in a turbo economy car. ;)
 
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