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i really want a subwoofer in this car as the bass sucks. can someone give me a simple detailed step by step on how to do it with our stock radio? i have the base model.
 

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I've been hoping that someone would post a video - even checked the regular Elantra forum to see if there was anything over there. Couple of threads from people who have installed replacement speakers, head units and subs, but not much in the way of pictures or step by step instructions. Still good information though.

Here is a link for removing the radio that is really good:

There is also some information on the Facebook page:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/elantrasportgroupNA/

Found this wiring diagram somewhere - don't know if it's for the premium system or the regular. I notice it shows center channel and subwoofer, so it might be for the premium. I haven't had my regular head unit out to see if this wiring diagram works.

I want to add a sub too - even have a kenwood amp and pioneer sub - but probably won't get around to it until spring.

Hopefully someone will post a tutorial before then.
 

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I installed one thats a sub/amp combo all self contained, but my instructions would be quite different to a separate sub and amp that would go in the trunk and need to be wired all the way to the battery. Mine sits in the cabin and got wired to the fuse box near the steering wheel.
 

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Using the schematic above, I used a RCA line level converter from Amazon or your local Walmart. Attach it to the rear speaker wires behind the radio. I then purchased a 4 gauge amp it from Amazon. Comes with everything you will need to run your amp and to get sound to your subwoofer(s) of your choosing. Run the positive 4 gauge power wire from the battery with the fuse close to battery through the firewall hole under dash used for the hood release. You will have to remove the plastics to route your wires down the left side of the vehicle. All can be removed easily and unbroken using a handy set stereo plastic pry tools. You will also need to remove each doors rubber foam insulation to be able to remove some of the plastic parts to route the power and remote turn on wires from stereo. After you have completed the power and remote turn on wires all the way to rear trunk area of the ES, Its time to route the RCA wires down the right side of the ES in the same way as we did the left side. Do not run all thew wires down the same side of any vehicle. If you do this you will get that whiny power hum through your subwoofers as you increase/decrease your speed. That is why its important to separate the power and speaker wires across the vehicle. Now all the wires are to the back, You have the negative 4 or 8 gauge. I attached that to one of the bolts under the rear seats floor board located when you fold down either side of the seat. It can be very tight under there but it is manageable. Depending on how much power you are looking to put out on your subs you may need to use a Capacitor. I am using a 1/5 farad cap that is used inline just between the power of the Amp. The power wire goes to the positive terminal of cap then to the amp. The ground wire goes from the floor to the negative terminal of cap then to the amp. Remote turn on wire goes to remote turn on terminal of amp as well. Run your speaker wires from the amp to speakers and have everything mounted to speaker box if thats what you choose and your ready.

Links
:https://www.amazon.com/BlingKingdom-Audio-Removal-Plastic-Tools/dp/B017854Y5Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505926056&sr=1-1&keywords=stereo+plastic+pry+tool

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Grade-Channel-Wiring-BAK42/dp/B008UXYNWA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505927236&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=4+gauge+amp+kit&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-2-Channel-Adjustable-Lineout-Converter/dp/B00009UHRE/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505927289&sr=1-3&keywords=rca+line+out+converter

https://www.amazon.com/Belva-BB2D/dp/B014ITZAQ2/ref=sr_1_11_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505927324&sr=1-11-spons&keywords=1/2+farad+capacitor&psc=1

Hope this helps.
 

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look up Line Out Converter you can piggy back off the rear speakers.
Someone over on the Regular Elantra pages said that the rear speaker feed wasn't a full range feed. When he fed his sub from that feed, he couldn't get real pure lows.

Has anyone on this forum with a sub noticed a range issue?
 

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Someone over on the Regular Elantra pages said that the rear speaker feed wasn't a full range feed. When he fed his sub from that feed, he couldn't get real pure lows.

Has anyone on this forum with a sub noticed a range issue?
The factory DSP doesn't put out a 0Hz-20kHz signal. It's limited and from what I can tell, rolls off around 40-50Hz. Not sure what the roll off is on the highs. Only way to properly correct it is to replace the factory headunit. You could get one of those expensive DSPs that piggy back on the stock system, but that's a dice roll IMHO. I have a JL 10w6v3 running off a JL RD900/5 being fed speaker level from front L/R. Subharmonics aren't nearly as good as they could be thanks to the factory DSP settings.
 

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I actually wanted to buy a 8inch sub to put on the spare hole in my boot cause I dont have the premium stereo version. However, every installer here in Sydney tells me its gonna sound crap and may vibrate being at the back. Hard for someone to just do the job.

Also thinking of the LC2I or LC7I audio controllers to add to the install of a powered spaced saving slim sub which hopefully will go good???
 

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Wanted to resurrect this thread. I'm trying to run a wire through the firewall, but can't seem to find a good place. The suggestion above said to run through hood cable release, but that seems pretty difficult. I tried poking a hole through the firewall on the right side of the bundle of cables, and got through the rubber on the inside of the vehicle, but I can't seem to push the screw easily through into the engine compartment, and I am hesitant to use a drill. Any practical ideas?
 
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