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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Everyone,

WELCOME TO THE CLANK1051 BUILD THREAD!!!

In this thread, I hope to capture my journey of building and modifying my Hyundai Elantra Sport.

When it comes to my vehicle I am function over form. The modifications and changes that I make to my vehicle are done so with the intent to enhance the performance of it. I would rather have a regular looking Elantra that is super fast and agile than a tricked out looking stock peanut.

With this in mind, LET'S BEGIN!!

First, lets go over what is already in the car.

1. SXTH Element Shifter Assembly Bushings and Shifter Cable end Bushings
These were an incredibly easy and simple install that makes a huge improvement when it comes to your shifting. I believe the whole set was $70 and it took me a bout an hour and a half to install in both locations (Inner console & Above the transmission).

2. Big Gulp Intake from DamnFastDD
Overall Good Kit. They include everything that you need to replace the Factory intake with a bigger and better flowing intake. Turbo spools much quicker and the car has better acceleration. It also gives you a great blow off sound. DamnFast DD also includes a breather kit to replace the tube routing the crankcase back into the intake. That was one of my favorite parts of this modification. I had about 25K miles on the car when I made this change and I could see how much oil was going back into the turbo and the engine (None of which is ok).

3. SXTH Element Rear Sway Bar
I actually did an install write up for this if you would like to learn about what the install is like. Here is the link:
http://www.elantrasport.com/forum/1...01-sxth-generation-rear-sway-bar-install.html
Good price. Only $170. The install was super easy and it made a huge difference in the rear end of the vehicle. The car feels like it has better traction and you hug turns and corners so much nicer.

4. Resonator Delete Pipe by DamnFastDD
Really does not matter who you get this through. They are all the same. I got this mod because it was cheap. It costed me $20 and the install was easy. I don't know if it even made a difference. Nothing that I ever noticed but I supposed better air flow is always a good thing.

That is it as far as what is in the car now. I wasn't able to do much since I was still in school. Since graduating, I have acquired a new job and I have a bit more disposable income so I am hoping to do much more this year.

Here is the "WISH" List:

Engine:
Lightweight Water Pump Pulley by Shark Racing
Volt Stabilizer and Ground Wire Kit by Shark Racing
Oil Catch Can by Unknown (Haven't decided who I want to get this from yet)
Fuel Pump Feed Kit by SXTH Element
Silicone Radiator Hose Set by SXTH Element
Performance Thermostat by Shark Racing
Electronic Boost Control Solenoid by DamnFastDD
Oil Cooler Kit - I have been looking at the Mishimoto kit but I will make by final decision further down the road

Turbo/Intercooler:
Upgraded Turbo Kit by SXTH Element
Upgraded FMIC by Unknown
BOV by Unknown
MAC BOV Solenoid Upgrade by SXTH Element

Exhaust:
High Flow Cat Downpipe by SXTH Element- I still need this car to pass emissions so a high flow cat is my best bet.
Cat Back Exhaust - I was actually planning to get this from DamnFast DD but since then I have looked into making my own exhaust. Fortunatley, I have welding capabilities at my place of work so this may be a DIY project. More on this to come.

Suspension:
Pillow Ball Front Lower Control Arm Bushing Set by Shark Racing
Coilovers - I do not know if I will put them in. I don't not plan to stance my vehicle but if I have the extra money in the future an inch or two lower would certainly enhance the cars agility and maneuverability.

Brakes:
Big Brake Kit - Right now I believe Shark Racing is the only company with a Big Brake kit. This is something that I plan to do much further down the road so I will revisit this when I am ready. For now, I plan to use better brake pads and slotted rotors.

Exterior:
Custom Headlight Assembly - I am actually looking to do exactly what SXTH Element did with their Elantra. I think that Mario Kart rainbow set up looks dope.
Front Splitter - I am looking to fabricate a custom splitter myself. This is more to improve the aerodynamics of the vehicle compared to looks

As you may have noticed, I am making sure to upgrade a lot of my engine so that it will be able to handle the upgraded boost and power that I plan to run. I also do this to improve the overall health and longevity of the engine.

I think that is it for the starter post. My next upgrade that I am attacking is the exhaust. I am currently looking into the cost and what it would entail to have my own custom exhaust fabricated.

More on all of this to come.

Thank you all for your time,
Stephen
 

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I wish I had the time to tackle everything you have planned. I look forward to hearing about your build as it goes. Do you have a link or pic of the SXTH Element headlights you’re talking about? I can’t find anything anywhere and I’m super curious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I wish I had the time to tackle everything you have planned. I look forward to hearing about your build as it goes. Do you have a link or pic of the SXTH Element headlights you’re talking about? I can’t find anything anywhere and I’m super curious.
That Dude in Blue does a video about the vehicle. I cant find a good picture of the headlights either.

Here is the link to the video:

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Update: Install of the SXTH Element Hot Pipe Upgrade

This is the pipe connecting the turbo to the Intercooler.
If you are interested in this modification here is the link:

Elantra Sport OEM Intercooler Hot Pipe Upgrade by SXTH Element Engineering

SXTH Element..... You're welcome.
Maybe throw me some free stuff if you get a sale from this... Just sayin'

OK on to the install.
This is a relatively easy installation. I would say the hardest part was figuring out its orientation and also removing the stock hose clamps.
I FUCKING HATE THOSE THINGS!!!!!

Let's get started

Tools you will need:
10mm Wrench
Pair of Pliers

First step is to get the car off the ground. The hot pipe is located on the bottom of your engine.



Once you have the car off the ground, go ahead and remove the splash guard.

I wont explain how to do this because I would hope it is simple enough.

Once the splash guard is removed, you will need to disconnect the pipe from the turbo end.



You will need to remove the two 10mm bolts mounting the pipe to the bottom of the engine.



Then you need to disconnect the pipe from the Intercooler.



Just a heads up. If you purchased the upgraded resonator pipe, this new hot pipe will replace that.

If you have not upgraded your resonator pipe, then you will need to deal with the shitty OEM hose clamps.

This is why I included the pair of pliers. I cannot fit any wrench or socket onto them so I get them loosened with the pliers.

Once they are loosened a bit, you can back them off more with your fingers.

The new pipe includes new hose clamps that are actually of excellent quality. Good job SXTH Element.

Here is a picture comparing the stock pipe to the new upgraded hot pipe.



As you can see, the new one is a bit wider and looks to allow the air to move much easier.

Then it is just a matter of fitting the new pipe in.

Once the new pipe is in correctly, tighten all the clamps and YOU ARE DONE.

SXTH Element does offer a bracket for an additional price. I passed on it for now to see if I could make my own for a much cheaper price.

I drove it this morning and I don't know if I saw any drastic change in power.

They state that it adds 6hp to the wheels and I am sure this is true but I assume I will fully utilize this mod once I have my car tuned.

For now, I feel good just letting my car breath easier.

That is it for this addition to my car build. If I missed anything feel free to add on.

If you have any questions just let me know and I will try to help out.
 

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Looks good.

For the BBK I would suggest going to KDM tuners and using their CTSV big brake kit. Uses the Brembo calipers off of the CTSV and supplies upgraded rotors, pads, lines and fluid. It’s like 840 for the fronts which is a screaming deal for good brakes. It’s a bolt on and will be much better than screwing with Shark Racing’s BS
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Status update:

The entire front of my car is taken apart. I pulled out the grill to modify it myself and install the aluminum mesh grill.

I also pulled out the headlights and they are on their way for the work I listed above in a previous reply.

The grill should be in by Wednesday and l looking to have headlights by next week.

Pictures to follow so be excited.

I SAID BE EXCITED!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Update:

New Grill Install

Here is the final Product


I actually custom made this piece. And I would not do it again. OMG what a pain. I do not have the patience to work in auto body repair.

First I needed to remove the bumper and remove the front grill.





Once you have the grill removed, you will need to cut out the middle portion of the grill.

You can do this with a hand saw or with a Dremel. I highly recommend having the Dremel. It will help out it many areas of the project.

Here is the grill once the middle portion is removed.



Once you have the center out, it is a matter of sanding and using finishing putty to fill in the holes, scratches and getting the surface to be even and smooth.

This will be the most time consuming step of this project. This is where I struggled. I got the piece to be about 90% good and I couldn't get myself to do the rest. Was ready to kill myself.

I bought a pre-cut and pre-bent piece of aluminum mesh from Customcargrills.com.

Once you have the piece, it is a matter of zip tying it to the grill and using a plastic adhesive to glue the two pieces together.

Custom Car Grills actually does a very good tutorial video for this project. I did not go into depth because you could learn much more from the video.

Here is said video:


Waiting to get my headlights back before I reattach my bumper. Will post pics when everything is done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Status Update:

Headlights are done and should be in the mail to come back today.

Here are a few pictures that Derek sent me:





Hoping to get them back either Wednesday or Thursday.

I need to finish up my dual catch can setup and my boost gauge before I can put everything back together.

I noticed that no one has done an in depth install for boost gauges so I thought I would try to make one for you guys.

Looking to have everything completed by the end of the week so look forward to more.

Till then,
Stephen
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Elantra Progress

OK Guys. I have been away for a while but I have been working on the Elantra in the meantime.
Here is what I have done since my last post.

Grill and Headlights are back in the car and overall I am very pleased with the end product.

Here are a few photos.





I installed a boost gauge from Innovative Motorsports in my B pillar (Pictures to come).

I have a few pictures of how I wired my headlights and my gauge. Hopefully I may give you some ideas for your builds.

I created three sets of ground, headlight and power wires for the three gauges that I plan to mount.



I was able to route all of the wires right up into the pillar.



Here are the three wires (Ground, Power, Headlight) hanging down from the dash. I know, I certainly didn't make it easy for myself to distinguish between them. I was going off what I had available so I made it work.



I used the interior fuse box to power the gauges because it is located right under the pillar in the dash. I used a quick connect since they are so easy. I crimped the connections together and then put a piece of shrink wrap on it to protect/ hold it together.


Sorry for the blurry photo.

This is a photo showing how I grounded the gauges and ran all the wiring through my firewall. The gauge is digital so I had a wire connecting to the boost sensor in the engine bay, the tachometer wire, and the headlight switch (dims the gauge when my headlights turn on).
There is a nice spot to ground everything so I found a nut that fit and used it.



Just so you know, roping these wires through the firewall was the most difficult part of this project. Be prepared. It sucks.

Overall, I am happy with the gauge. I hated not knowing what I was getting for boost.

Next up: Rear Engine Mount and SXTH Element Fuel Line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Engine Mount

Guys!! I installed the Rear Engine mount from SXTH element and this thing is AWESOME!!!

The install is super easy and for $200-ish. You get a rear bang for your buck.

Tools needed:
14mm socket
18mm socket
19mm socket

14mm wrench
18mm wrencgh
19mm wrench

Flathead Screwdriver

3/8" Ratchet
3/8" Torque Ratchet

Here is the install.

First get the car off the ground.

I highly recommend removing the splash guard because it makes the install a lot easier.

I actually blocked my engine in place but it was not required. The two other mounts hold most of the weight.

Remove the two rear 14mm bolts. You will replace these with bolts that SXTH gives you.



Next, remove the 18mm bolt holding the front of the mount. The nut securing the bolt on the other side is not attached to the engine mount. Once you break the nut free it will spin with the bolt. You will need to hold it with an 18mm wrench to unfasten it fully.



After that the OEM mount should come out nice and easy.

First you will need to mount the bracket with the SXTH logo on it. The piece does has a certain orientation so make sure you are paying attention.

(DISCLAIMER)

I am simply stating what I torqued my bolts down to. I am not telling or recommending what you should do.

I torqued these two bolts down with 50 ft-lbs.

Once you are completed with the two bolts, you will then mount the engine mount in the proper configuration.



https://www.elantrasport.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15647&thumb=1

The "SXTH" should be facing down when it is fully mounted.

Finally, you swing the mount back up and install the large OEM bolt.

I torqued the large OEM bolt to 85 ft-lbs and I torqued the connecting bolt to 50 ft-lbs.



And that is it. It is literally that easy and wow what a difference. The pulls feel better. The shifting feels better!! The acceleration feels a lot more smooth.

There is a bit more engine vibration but I could care less. This mount is a solid modification and I recommend it to all.

Well done SXTH. Next is their fuel line.

P.S. I am attaching the pictures as well. I find that they are getting lost as time goes on.
 

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I actually blocked my engine in place but it was not required. The two other mounts hold most of the weight.
Yeah that mount just prevents the engine from rotating too much. Doesn't physically hold the engine up. So no need to support the engine.
 
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