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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It has been roughly -30°f lately and its almost impossible to keep engine temps up I have to start it 20 minutes before I leave or my oil has the consistency of mollasses. Coolant temp still shows as cold but I check the oil first. Under throttle it heats up but every stop sign and light the needle drops fast. Just looking for a solution, I would prefer the engine stays lubed and in one piece. Any suggestions?
 

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Does anyone know the location of the sensor that is related to this reading? Maybe it's exposed? Maybe at a place where the mounting location cools quickly but the fluid is warm?
 

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I don't think there is a solution as the problem here (which is not really a problem) is that we actually have a good temp sensor/gauge that shows true readings rather than an on/off switch like most.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You could be right I ran it with the torque app and it seemed to be at 178 under throttle but at idle it dropped to 130-ish. I also just passed 10500 after 6 months so its in the shop for oil change number 3 today that should fix the maple syrup oil problem sort of. We will see I work nights so its always cold outside. -45 wind chill a couple nights ago
 

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A couple things -- First, keep in mind it is a coolant temperature gauge, not an oil temperature gauge. Coolant is being circulated through the radiator and its temperature will fluctuate much more rapidly than that of the oil. Secondly, I think you are likely doing more damage by letting the car warm up at idle for such a long time. The best way to warm the car up is to drive it (not hard) straight away.

As R1600Turbo pointed out, the temp gauge on this car is tuned a little differently than others, probably to discourage hard driving before it has fully warmed up -- so keep that in mind too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Right away? If the oil is barely flowing its sitting in the oil pan not lubing the cams right? I'd rather not have that happen. I know the gauges are different but you do make a valid point oil cools slower. I won't stress about it so much but I think ill let it idle still, unless you can explain how it harms it? Anywayd Its a little warmer now so I can drive my eclipse as long as its above 0° it won't idle otherwise.
 

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I start the car and let it do it's warmup procedure, then when the RPM's drop down after 20 seconds or so, I throw it in gear and drive off. Wikkie is correct that the best way to warm up the car is to drive it. Sitting idle just wastes fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ill have to go outside tonight to show you what the oil is like after 20 seconds. 5 weight oil is good down to -30c/-22f it has been as cold as -35 on my way to work not counting wind chill should I maybe switch to 0 weight? I'm not super concerned about the coolant I'm more worried about oil. I'm not upset I just feel like my worries about the oil are being overlooked, its my fault because I asked about a coolant gauge. Sorry
 

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Assuming high quality full synthetic...
0W-30 for the winter months won't hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I only buy mobil1 or royal purple. I'm considering it. Except I just put royal purple 5w30 in yesterday so I may have wasted 45 bucks. I called my dad (a mechanic) and asked him he said high quality synthetic should be good below that temp. The reason I'm so worried is because if the cams starve its probably not something that will be a problem before the warranty goes out. And since I already have a car that I spin the tach regularly I generally stay out of the gas in the elantra unless I feel like it, the cams wouldn't wear so fast.
 

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Yes, give it a few seconds to start circulating oil, but otherwise you are better off not idling it cold for an extended period of time.

The car takes longer to warm up at idle and is poorly lubricated for longer. It also takes longer for the O2 sensors to warm up and until they are, the car is dumping fuel to ensure there are no lean conditions -- pistons and piston rings are heating up during this time and not as well sealed. Over time you will end up with more oil dilution (by fuel).

This is why all manufacturers have severe use service intervals that advise more frequent oil changes for cars that are regularly driven for short distances, particularly in the cold.

All of that said, you are unlikely to cause any real problems by idling it cold. Plenty of manufacturers include remote starters that encourage this type of behavior!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes, give it a few seconds to start circulating oil, but otherwise you are better off not idling it cold for an extended period of time.

The car takes longer to warm up at idle and is poorly lubricated for longer. It also takes longer for the O2 sensors to warm up and until they are, the car is dumping fuel to ensure there are no lean conditions -- pistons and piston rings are heating up during this time and not as well sealed. Over time you will end up with more oil dilution (by fuel).

This is why all manufacturers have severe use service intervals that advise more frequent oil changes for cars that are regularly driven for short distances, particularly in the cold.

All of that said, you are unlikely to cause any real problems by idling it cold. Plenty of manufacturers include remote starters that encourage this type of behavior!
Good point thank you. I am doing oil changes every 3500ish because it gets driven a lot I bought it in may and just hit 10600 I also live 1.2 miles from work but I drive the long way 5 miles so the battery charges. Learned that the hard way in the eclipse
 

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Plenty of manufacturers include remote starters that encourage this type of behavior!
Not necessarily. To get the car fired up and get things going but no really intended to let it sit for long periods of time. If you ask me it's just a way for them to make money off people that don't like to be in a cold car. :p

Good point thank you. I am doing oil changes every 3500ish because it gets driven a lot I bought it in may and just hit 10600 I also live 1.2 miles from work but I drive the long way 5 miles so the battery charges. Learned that the hard way in the eclipse
I also do every 3500, but I'm in the desert. And that's not driving a lot, 18k miles since April is a lot. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I also do every 3500, but I'm in the desert. And that's not driving a lot, 18k miles since April is a lot.
[/QUOTE]

Wow that's some driving. I don't have that kind of money I bought the only Mt in 500 miles so of course I paid 22000 for base model with no credit and no cosigner. So add 3000 for extra warranty because the bank said so and 19.4% interest... You can guess my monthly payment. But its the car I wanted so I'm happy.
 

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Wow that's some driving. I don't have that kind of money I bought the only Mt in 500 miles so of course I paid 22000 for base model with no credit and no cosigner. So add 3000 for extra warranty because the bank said so and 19.4% interest... You can guess my monthly payment. But its the car I wanted so I'm happy.
You do know that you are not required to purchase those extra warranties? They legally cannot make it mandatory. It's in the fine print on the paperwork. And if you want to, you can cancel them. That $3k will then get refunded back to the principle of the loan. Might look into that.

My 6MT base was $18,990 + TTL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You do know that you are not required to purchase those extra warranties? They legally cannot make it mandatory. It's in the fine print on the paperwork. And if you want to, you can cancel them. That $3k will then get refunded back to the principle of the loan. Might look into that.

My 6MT base was $18,990 + TTL.[/QUOTE]

Thanks ill look into that. I plan on doing some mods and buying a BTR tune so I'd rather not be paying for that warranty just to void it although I will be getting a sparred ecu, I won't get the tune for a couple years though just to make sure I have no problems that could be exacerbated by more boost and other things associated with tuning and mods. Also I'm saving to import a 91 mitsubishi gto.
 
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