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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've done 3 oil changes so far and I think I've figured out the best way to change the oil DIY.

Don't use ramps. The oil plug faces forward and if your car isn't level, it won't drain properly.

This morning I changed the oil and tried to slide under without using ramps or jacking the car up, didn't work because the oil catch pan is too tight of a fit.

The trick is use the jack and just jack it up 3-4 inches, tire still on the ground, and the catch pan will slide in and you can start draining......BUT!!!!....make sure to slide some rags or paper towels behind the drain plug so the oil doesn't pool up in the plastic shroud.

Then, you can slowly lower the jack, if your catch pan is low enough like mine, you can finish draining with the car level.

After it's done draining, jack it back up 3-4 inches so you have room to slide the pan out, change filter, put plug back in, etc.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've debated getting one of those fumoto valves for a long time.

On one hand, they're cleaner, and more convenient.

On the other, it's another potential failure point. Some people swear by them, use them for 20 years and never have any problems for 400,000 miles.......others have had issues. I don't want issues with my engine's ability to keep oil in the engine. A defective fumoto valve at best leaks, at worst kills your engine.

In the end, I've decided the convenience isn't worth the potential risk, even a small risk, especially since I don't find it terribly inconvenient to just screw the drain plug off and replace the gasket. A bunched up paper towel solves the oil in the plastic shroud problem.

I worked at Jiffy Lube for 8 years through high school and college, changed oil on thousands and thousands of cars, and the tried and true drain plug with a fresh crush gasket on cars like ours NEVER fails. It's simple and it works.
 

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i agree that locatuon of our drain plug makes zero fuggin sense. literally theres no point to it being in the front like that.
 

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This approach worked well. Thanks for the tip about stuffing the rag between the undertray and the pan, definitely needed, odd oil pan shape makes the oil follow the pan under the car when it starts to slow to a trickle.

Very quick too, just need to make sure you have a pan that fits under the car without jacking it up, otherwise, very fast for those with floor jacks, just jack up a little, remove drain, lower, come back a little later and jack up to put drain plug back in and replace filter, then all done. One of the easiest changes I have done, the drain being on the front actually helps with this approach, since you don't even need to be under the car since the drain plug and filter are within arms reach.
 

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I'm just using Mobil 1 synthetic 5w30. I buy the big 5 quart jug from Walmart and that is plenty. Usually don't use the whole thing.
 

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Sorry if this is not the right place to ask but im due for my first oil change and wanted to know what the hyundai dealer charges for the service?
I was wanting to buy the pennzoil platinum 5w30 get about 6qts and have them use that.
I wanna have at least one oil change at the dealer just for history incase something goes wrong down the line before i try doing it myself.

Thanks for the help in advance guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I use Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 in the 5 qt jugs. $23 at Wal Mart.

It is the only widely available oil that meets the ACEA A5/B5 spec listed in the owners manual.

So that's my 2 cents. Read the owner's manual and pay attention to ALL of the listed requirements/recommendations regarding the oil to use.
 
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I use Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 in the 5 qt jugs. $23 at Wal Mart.

It is the only widely available oil that meets the ACEA A5/B5 spec listed in the owners manual.

So that's my 2 cents. Read the owner's manual and pay attention to ALL of the listed requirements/recommendations regarding the oil to use.
Doesn't the manual recommend 3 different brands of oil? lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Doesn't the manual recommend 3 different brands of oil? lol
Shell is the recommended oil, but they don't sell Shell that meets the spec at Walmart, at least in my location.

The brand doesn't matter anyway, it's the spec.

5W30 ACEA A5/B5 compliant is all that matters.
 
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Shell is the recommended oil, but they don't sell Shell that meets the spec at Walmart, at least in my location.

The brand doesn't matter anyway, it's the spec.

5W30 ACEA A5/B5 compliant is all that matters.
The shell helix 5w30 is "ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4;"

the 0w30 is "ACEA A5/B5"
 
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Just put a good oil in. Shell and Quaker state is fine if you are concerned about brands or what is recommended in the manual They are both the same company (not saying the same oil)
 

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Just did my first oil change at 1700 miles. Goddamn but I forgot how tight the filter and drain plug are from factory. I ended up using ramps to get my elbows under the car. I needed a oil filter cap, a wrench and an extension to turn the filter. Oil plug was a workout with a short wrench. Not a lot of room to maneuver if you don't want to deal with the hassle of removing the plastic coverings.

Will definitely use Nels0300's method of jacking up one side next time though. Went with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum as it's the only ACEA A5/B5 oil readily available and was on sale for $25 - $10 rebate at walmart and amazon. Used an OEM filter, but I'm still debating on whether to stick to that route in the future.

Also went with a Fumoto short nipple (could easily have gone long with how deep the plug is) as I've had great experiences with them before. Makes life so much easier and lets you drain some oil for testing or if you overfill.
 

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Just did my first oil change at 1700 miles. Goddamn but I forgot how tight the filter and drain plug are from factory. I ended up using ramps to get my elbows under the car. I needed a oil filter cap, a wrench and an extension to turn the filter. Oil plug was a workout with a short wrench. Not a lot of room to maneuver if you don't want to deal with the hassle of removing the plastic coverings.

Will definitely use Nels0300's method of jacking up one side next time though. Went with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum as it's the only ACEA A5/B5 oil readily available and was on sale for $25 - $10 rebate at walmart and amazon. Used an OEM filter, but I'm still debating on whether to stick to that route in the future.

Also went with a Fumoto short nipple (could easily have gone long with how deep the plug is) as I've had great experiences with them before. Makes life so much easier and lets you drain some oil for testing or if you overfill.
Thanks for the input, I read through a few other posts about oil and I too plan on ultra platinum with OEM filter. My sales guy when I bought the car let me “have” a filter to take for my first oil change... I ordered the same model 26300-35504 On amazon and as far as I can tell they are Original OEM, so figure I’ll stick with them as if they warrant the engines with that filter, and that spec oil job well done 👍
 
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