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Elantra GT N-Line Engine Mounts

21K views 43 replies 13 participants last post by  Inuyasha 
#1 · (Edited)
All,

In the press release for the 2019 Elantra GT N-Line (replacing GT Sport) it was noted that Hyundai increased the rubber durometer stiffness of the engine mounts:



The Elantra Sport sedan and GT Sport share these mounts as the cars are pretty identical underneath. Part numbers are shared between the two cars. Some of us (mostly in my facebook group, but some here too) are having issues with clunks from the front of the car, which has turned out to be the RH engine mount going bad. I am also getting some nasty noises from the front of the car recently. I could have the RH mount replaced under warranty but I need it replaced ASAP and the dealer wanted to stretch it out over 2 weeks due to scheduling conflicts. So I have decided to replace it myself. Dealer wanted $240 with tax for the RH mount. This same mount can be purchased third party for under $100 including shipping from Mr Albert Hwang on facebook.

Long story short, I will be replacing both the RH and LH mounts myself, however I will be replacing them with the N-Line mounts. Ordered this morning, they should arrive sometime next week. $185 shipped for both. Once I receive and install, I will confirm fitment (but I am 99% sure they will fit) This is a good upgrade for those looking for slightly stiffer mounts without going teeth rattling stiff.

Part numbers:

RH - 21810-J7200
LH - 21830-J3000
 
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#2 ·
Thanks for the info as usual R1600Turbo! I'd be interested in the ride quality - I'm sure it will be ok though. Right now the ES stock is great from a daily driving perspective. If I wanted a stiff ride I would have just picked up a Focus RS or Lotus Exige.
 
#4 ·
Right, but it definitely affects ride quality. I went off a tangent regarding stiffness haha.
 
#6 ·
I'm really looking into this!!
I still have your engine mount since I bought it 1.5 year ago... lost half of my teeth lol
can you pics one next to the other when you receive your package?
 
#7 ·
Mounts shipped yesterday. Should be here Thursday. Unfortunately they are coming signature required and I have to work for like 15 hours on that day so I won't be able to pick them up until Friday morning. And then, I won't be able to install them until Saturday afternoon after I get some suspension work done.
 
#8 ·
Received the mounts yesterday. Immediately put the RH mount in since it was easiest, hoping it would cure my clunking noises from the front. No go. So now I am back to trying to figure out what is causing the noise. I think I will disconnect the front sway bar this weekend while putting the LH mount in to see if it goes away. Could be the sway bar links.

The LH mount will require a bit more effort (LH wheel has to come off) and I was out of daylight, so it will have to go in on Saturday as my work schedule today and tomorrow is quite full.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Revised the part number for the RH mount in the original post. It's actually 21810-J7200. Put the LH mount in today. Can't say I noticed much of a difference, maybe shifting is a bit crisper (6MT). Pushing on the center section of the LH mount shows a huge difference in the stiffness from stock.

For those that are thinking of doing this, here's what the install consists of for both:

Passenger Mount - Engine (RH)
- Put car on jack stands or ramps (removing wheels isn't necessary)
- Remove engine under tray
- Support the engine with the jack. (put something on top of it to protect the oil pan. A 2x4 works)
- Unbolt and move the overflow tank out of the way
- Take the time now to loosen the nut holding the engine bracket to the mount
- Remove 3 small bolts holding the bracket to the frame
- Remove 2 nuts and 1 bolt from the bracket on the engine
- Install in reverse order.
- Top nut is 65-79 ft/lb. The two nuts and one bolt on the engine bracket are 43-54 ft/lb. The three bolts that hold the mount to the frame are 36-47 ft/lb.

Driver Mount - Transmission (LH)
- Put car on jack stands and remove LF wheel.
- Remove airbox (if stock, I think you might be able to leave the intake in if you have an aftermarket one)
- Remove battery
- Remove battery tray
- Remove engine under tray
- There is a small plastic panel that pops out behind the trans mount so that you can get to the two bolts. Remove it.
- Support the transmission with the jack.
- Remove the two long bolts that hold the trans to the mount. Then remove the 3 bolts that hold the mount to the frame.
- Install in reverse order.
- Small bolts are 36-47 ft/lb. The long bolts are 79-94 ft/lb

Here are some comparison photos. I should have taken more but I didn't have it on my mind to make a tutorial. The RH mounts look the same, hard to tell them apart. The LH mount has a clear difference, extra rubber on the front side with what appear to be some bump stops to keep it moving too much during hard cornering.
 

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#11 ·
does it reduce wheel hop?
I'm looking for a alternative to the lower mount...
 
#13 ·
I'm not sure if I mentioned this elsewhere but my wheelhop is gone after the ball joints were replaced. The wheels just break away and spin but no jumping or hopping on tarmac. Also not very sure if its something to do with winter tires.
 
#17 ·
Jason - from the chart it looks like the underside engine mount is way stiffer on the N Line. Any thoughts on switching that out?

I'd be interested since it'd be a 20 minute install job and probably be a good compromise between the stock mount and the SXTH mount. I couldn't stand the SXTH one, too rumbly and loud in the cabin even with the "daily" bushings.
 
#18 ·
I had thoughts on going with the SXTH mount but haven't made up my mind yet. I have a tune on the way from BTR with raised idle so I'm curious if it would tone the vibration down a bit.
 
#28 ·
It would be interesting to see a road test comparing the Elantra GT Sport with the 2019 Elantra GT N Line, in terms of handling and ride comfort. All else being equal, the springs and bars changes will reduce understeer, and the mounts will do......that's the question. The GT Sport has a slightly harsher ride than our cars, so what would the GT N be like day to day.
 
#33 ·
Lower mount is in. I basically had to remove my 4-point lower tie bar to get it in. So keep that in mind if you have the same bracing. Haven't driven it yet so will have to update on how it feels later. Basically installed it, washed the car and parked it for the night.



 
#36 ·
Lower mount is in. I basically had to remove my 4-point lower tie bar to get it in. So keep that in mind if you have the same bracing. Haven't driven it yet so will have to update on how it feels later.
Any difference R1600 with the new N Line engine mount?
 
#39 ·
Thanks R1600. Any difference when launching off the line?
 
#44 ·
Thank you, R1600Turbo! I think I will need to replace the LH mount to kill the noise. Right now I only replace the right hand one, but the noise is still there. Do you also replace the lower center mount? any idea which parts are clanking and making the noise exactly? I doubt it's actually the LH mount going bad even though the noise sounds coming from the passenger side.
 
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