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Discussion Starter #1
So I’ll start by saying I’ve never had issues with this car. It’s a ‘17 M/T. Secondly, I haven’t driven this car consistently in three months because I haven’t needed to and am currently detailing it and it won’t start. This is the second time this has happened in two weeks. I started out detailing the engine bay, it sat for two days, tried to start it and it wouldn’t start. Put a battery charger on it for 30 minutes and it started. I drove it for about 20 minutes, came home and parked it and haven’t driven it since. Pulled it out to wash it and it started. Pulled it back into the garage and it started. That was two weeks ago. Now it’s acting crazy. Went to start it and it won’t start. The interior lights are flickering at a constant spacing while something is making s ticking noise and the instrument cluster is saying to push in the clutch to start and it won’t respond. The instrument cluster is stuck and won’t turn off. When I try to lock it with the key fob, it won’t lock but it will make the locking beeping sound. I put the battery charger back on and within five minutes, the charger said the battery is charged. Anyone want to guess what it going on with this car? I know I shouldn’t have let this car sit this long and I fear that may be the issue. Please help a brother out!
 

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Sounds like you dislodged a wire or something when you detailed the engine bay. Have you measured the cranking voltage of the car battery to rule that out?


My ES sits unused at least two weeks every month - it's not a daily driver since I take public transportation to work or just work from home (I just broke 15k miles). Definitely no problems starting up the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Volts on the battery are currently running low at about 5.2! I am trying to recharge it but I don’t know what else to do. I read online not to have your key fobs too close to the vehicle and well both of mine have been close to it in the garage. I’m an idiot. I didn’t think of that and the guy mentioned that if it’s too close, the key fob will try to be constantly responding to the car. So I just went to Walmart and replaced both batteries in the key fobs and that did not work either. Really hope I don’t need to get it towed to my dealership.
 

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The battery is toast. Same thing happened to mine. Started fine at my apartment, I drove 35 miles to a car wash and shut it off. Washed the car and then when I tried to start it all the lights were flashing and things were clicking. Battery was done for.
 

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Did Hyundai replace it? That’s my assumption because I just looked and saw batteries are covered 3year/unlimited miles. Hoping this darn thing will start through a jump and I don’t need it towed from my garage. Thank you for the response!
 

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They did not, don't know if they would. I was in a spot and just purchased one from AutoZone. I live in the Arizona heat which is murder on batteries, I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did. Usually every couple years it's time to replace out here.
 

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Volts on the battery are currently running low at about 5.2! I am trying to recharge it but I don’t know what else to do. I read online not to have your key fobs too close to the vehicle and well both of mine have been close to it in the garage. I’m an idiot. I didn’t think of that and the guy mentioned that if it’s too close, the key fob will try to be constantly responding to the car. So I just went to Walmart and replaced both batteries in the key fobs and that did not work either. Really hope I don’t need to get it towed to my dealership.
Replace battery!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
They did not, don't know if they would. I was in a spot and just purchased one from AutoZone. I live in the Arizona heat which is murder on batteries, I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did. Usually every couple years it's time to replace out here.
I would hate having to replace every two years with how expensive batteries are anymore. Two questions for you: 1. What particular battery did you end up purchasing? I’m going to see if my dealership will get the same Solite battery that comes with our cars. It seems to be very good quality. 2. When that incident at the car wash happened to you and you got the new battery, did anything at all have to be reset on the car by you or the dealer you purchased from? I read somewhere within the manual that when the battery has been disconnected, things need to be reset such as power windows, climate control to name a few and I’m just hoping the dealership gets me on my way and I don’t have to wait for them to screw with my car any longer than they need to. Two years ago I ran over a nail and the bonehead kid that worked on taking the old tire off screwed up and scratched the **** out of that wheel of mine and I about went off on him.
 

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I would hate having to replace every two years with how expensive batteries are anymore. Two questions for you: 1. What particular battery did you end up purchasing? I’m going to see if my dealership will get the same Solite battery that comes with our cars. It seems to be very good quality. 2. When that incident at the car wash happened to you and you got the new battery, did anything at all have to be reset on the car by you or the dealer you purchased from? I read somewhere within the manual that when the battery has been disconnected, things need to be reset such as power windows, climate control to name a few and I’m just hoping the dealership gets me on my way and I don’t have to wait for them to screw with my car any longer than they need to. Two years ago I ran over a nail and the bonehead kid that worked on taking the old tire off screwed up and scratched the **** out of that wheel of mine and I about went off on him.
Duralast Gold. Not sure if anything needed to be done after that. I work for Nissan and I know on those you have to hold the window switch up for a couple seconds for it to reset the auto up/down, but I don't believe I had to do that on mine.
 

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The batteries the dealers carry are from a different supplier than the production units, but in the Elantra's case, are larger and carry a higher CCA and/or higher reserve capacity (forget off the top of my head) than the production battery, so its a win. I recommend getting a dealer battery even if it's out of pocket (which i doubt it will be. Or if it is, itll be prorated). If not, at LEAST make sure you buy the correct AGM battery for the car. The alternator management on these newer models absolutely kills flooded batteries and people dont understand this.
 

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The batteries the dealers carry are from a different supplier than the production units, but in the Elantra's case, are larger and carry a higher CCA and/or higher reserve capacity (forget off the top of my head) than the production battery, so its a win. I recommend getting a dealer battery even if it's out of pocket (which i doubt it will be. Or if it is, itll be prorated). If not, at LEAST make sure you buy the correct AGM battery for the car. The alternator management on these newer models absolutely kills flooded batteries and people dont understand this.
This depends entirely on the dealership. Each individual dealership sets up their own purchasing agreements with the various vendors - none of this is set by corporate.
 

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Did Hyundai replace it? That’s my assumption because I just looked and saw batteries are covered 3year/unlimited miles. Hoping this darn thing will start through a jump and I don’t need it towed from my garage. Thank you for the response!
Battery is pro rated so you're going pay, if it's AGM battery its not 3/36.
 
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