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Discussion Starter #1
Just got a 2020 Elantra GT N Line (1.6t) and am looking at tuning options...I read that the ECU 2019+ models will dial back power when using piggyback devices and bolt-ons. Is there any truth to this, and what would the solution be? Want to make sure I have an easy way to revert the car to stock if it needs servicing without any warranty hassles in the future...
 

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DTE and Race Chip will work. If you get an ECU tune reverting back will do nothing, as there will be a addition to the flash counter. The OEM tune is count #1 your "tuned " reflash is #2, your reflash to an OEM file is count #3. ALL but #1 was documented by Hyundai. SO you will be 110% caught. The dealer can see this the minute they hookup to your car. A quality Piggyback box like DTE can not be seen by the dealer, Hyundai corprate can IF you have drivability issues and your dealer sends telemetry back to Hyundai. VW/Audi has a tune malware program where even if a mechanic at the dealerships own car gets plugged it, it gets scanned automatically and the info gets sent to VW/Audi servers. There is no way to stop that info from getting to VW'Audi even if you where the dealership owner.
 

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Stock ECU will (and has been since 2017) reduce power with bolt-ons. It's more of a torque limiter. Piggybacks, aka boost chips, get around this issue by tricking the ECU into thinking it is running less boost than it is, so the limiters stay out of play. Most are not very safe when it comes down to it. Already seen several stock turbo's replaced on cars that were running the AFE Scorcher. If it runs more than ~22-23 pounds of boost, that is way too much for the stock turbo and it will kill it. If you must go with a piggyback module, Lap3 ProTuner and JB4 are probably the top two for power gains per dollar when you factor in reliability. Full flash tunes that are tweaked to suit each car are the best route. 19+ does have a different ECU from 17-18 so remote flashing is currently unavailable.

As far as warranty work goes, any time you modify the car you run the risk of voiding the warranty. That's just the game you play. If you are super worried about the warranty, your best bet is to just not modify the car. But it all comes down to the dealership. Some are far more lenient than others.
 

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Since we only have 92 octane where I'm at, I would use the scorcher in Sport+ mode 24/7 which is supposed to be for 91 octane...I'm assuming the boost would be lower on that map? Regarding LAP3's spare ECU tune solution (keeping original stock, swapping out ECU when going in for service) does anyone know if any data is sent regarding the ECU switch? I know for the first 3yrs of ownership they give you BlueLink which will report diagnostics, error codes, etc...wondering if it would send info on different serial numbers of ECU running? Either way I go, I already know I gotta add the pierberg wastegate solenoid HKS plugs and 5w-40 oil. Another option I saw is the LAP3 Uncle Chip, but there's not a lot of info I can find specific to my vehicle or this version of the 1.6 engine.
 

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Since we only have 92 octane where I'm at, I would use the scorcher in Sport+ mode 24/7 which is supposed to be for 91 octane...I'm assuming the boost would be lower on that map? Regarding LAP3's spare ECU tune solution (keeping original stock, swapping out ECU when going in for service) does anyone know if any data is sent regarding the ECU switch? I know for the first 3yrs of ownership they give you BlueLink which will report diagnostics, error codes, etc...wondering if it would send info on different serial numbers of ECU running? Either way I go, I already know I gotta add the pierberg wastegate solenoid HKS plugs and 5w-40 oil. Another option I saw is the LAP3 Uncle Chip, but there's not a lot of info I can find specific to my vehicle or this version of the 1.6 engine.
If you go with the Scorcher, stay out of Race mode. It pulls 27-28psi through the stock turbo and that will definitely kill it. Lap3 spare ECU is fine, I had it at one point and switched to SXTH for issues I would rather not go over again. The only thing that could be off switching back and forth is the mileage in the ECU. As far as I know that's not something dealers will look at unless Hyundai asks them to. No idea about the Bluelink. I would stay away from the Uncle Chip. It was never officially released for these cars and Lap3 does not support them anymore. They have moved on to the ProTuner.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Lap3 spare ECU is fine, I had it at one point and switched to SXTH for issues I would rather not go over again.
Can you provide the link where you go over the issues so I can evaluate how relevant it is to my situation?
 

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Can you provide the link where you go over the issues so I can evaluate how relevant it is to my situation?
Long story short, rapid misfire issue. Was constantly told it was other things and not the tune. They finally offered to fix it but I had decided to go elsewhere at that point.
 

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Was it at all related to plugs and gapping? Has anyone else encountered the same issues?
Same plugs, same gap on my SXTH tune. Zero issues. A few others have encountered the same problem. It was the tune, likely too aggressive.
 

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Edit: DP
 

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I currently have Racechip and no problems or issues. The customer service it is good and mine came directly from Germany. I also don't want to deal with ecu tune until I'm out of warranty so for me racechip was the best solution. I recommended for the easy installation and the way to manage and change the settings.
 

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Same plugs, same gap on my SXTH tune. Zero issues. A few others have encountered the same problem. It was the tune, likely too aggressive.
I encountered similar issues in the early days when working with UPsolute and my 2002 GTI reflash. Over period of a month or so I helped them dial it in more for CA fuel and became much smoother and also tweaked different N75 valves.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Does SXTH offer the spare ECU option as well like LAP3 does, that way I can keep the original ECU stock to avoid any worry about different serial numbers (provided it doesn't send info like that through bluelink)?
 

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Does SXTH offer the spare ECU option as well like LAP3 does, that way I can keep the original ECU stock to avoid any worry about different serial numbers (provided it doesn't send info like that through bluelink)?
 

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Just got a 2020 Elantra GT N Line (1.6t) and am looking at tuning options...I read that the ECU 2019+ models will dial back power when using piggyback devices and bolt-ons. Is there any truth to this, and what would the solution be? Want to make sure I have an easy way to revert the car to stock if it needs servicing without any warranty hassles in the future...
Hey bud,

I would recommend that you check out RaceChip. They make piggybacks for a range of cars including the Elantra Sport and I have had mine on for 15000kms with no issues. Someone else has clocked around 40000kms with no issues either. There's a lot of horror stories when it comes to piggybacks in general, but they mostly concern the AFE module so would just steer clear, but that doesn't necessarily mean RaceChip is the same. As someone mentioned, unless you get a tune or piggyback like the RaceChip, the stock ECU will dial back the power. The performance gains from a RaceChip are noticeable and I'd seriously recommend you check it out at least. Also, it won't log any data (to my knowledge) so you can remove if it if you need dealership work done :)
 
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