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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
second thread... after Photobucket ruin my first thread this summer (and we're not able to edit our posts)

The car was bought in April 6MT Space Black

this thread is really just a journal of what was done, why this way, effect of the mods and problems occur by it.

first mod done was a DIY axle back muffler with a sleeper look. not much louder, just deeper tone!
Muffler was done 1 month after purchase and still pretty happy with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
second mob was the Shark Racing short throw shifter
why this unit, it was the only one available at this time and price was OK
installation was a real PITA
product wasn't a perfect replacement fit/match and the seller is a "?"$%%!
info about the service you should get buying from Shark here
so far still like the feel and throw
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
next mods, SXTH Element intake and resonator delete.
why 6th, I did like the idea of a no weld piece for a smoother flow and since ordering I grab the resonator delete and a vacuum distributor. I also take it with the breather hose option but no DV.
the DV hose was remove
I like the sound and power adder

over time I did add loctite to the bracket bolt and add a pre-filter

i also grab a lower mount from 6th used from a other member
I go this route because it had 2 bushing instead of one and vibration is still pretty noticeable!
idle nothing, highway nothing, but acceleration under 3k RPM is really loud inside the car.
but love the shifting and no more wheel hop
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
not performance related, I add boost gauge to the car.

nothing was offered for our car so I fab it
A pillar pod mod from original one
electronic boost gauge
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
next mod will be the Tork budget downpipe
why Tork, it fit my needs! Wasn't looking for huge diameter pipe, to pricey or a 3th V-band flange one.
I didn't install it yet... all the guys here saying it's a PITA to install cool me down lol
I will this Holiday where I can live without a car for few days in case something go wrong...

I will surely clean the inside of the pipe and wide up the welding pattern. Will keep you inform

next on the list will be the FMIC and tune!
 

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Loving the DIY approach.

Will be interested to see how you go on the FMIC, that's my next mod as well. Just finalised which one to use and the hoses to fit factory piping.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
so yesterday I heat the MIG weld with a TIG to smooth out everything. everything was done real quick in less than 40 minutes.
didn't had more time anyway...pic of before and after

just to make sure it's clear, I'm not complaining about the Tork product. 200$ for a DP shipped is unbeatable.
the price of 2 flanges, 2 bungs, flex pipe and piping shipped should be more than that!
so with labor et R&D I still don't get it lol
and I know how R&D can be a PITA, the header in my signature is my work...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
downpipe installation finish!

let be honest, it's a PITA! not the removal and install by it self, but the access.
And I thought I would be smarter than the other guy and find a way to install it without removing everything... end up I lost 3h and motivation yesterday...
SO, I did a mix of what Mathieu and Ja'Crispy said when they install there DP.
remove battery ECU battery plate and heat shield of the cat. this give me access to everything. a 2h job just to see all 3 bolts.

I use PL-100 as lube for the bolt and it work perfectly!! no problem removing all bolt, nothing strip, no tap needed!

center top bolt was a easy access by the battery location, 3/8 wrench 12" extension and it's done
bottom rear from under the car, 3/8" wrench 3" extension
bottom front needed a helper, 3/8" wrench 12" extension and a swivel socket adapter. I was under the car positioning the socket while the sister in law was in the battery section holding the wrench.

the 3 bolts took less then 10 min to remove!

I didn't like the gap of the DP with the second cat flange so I extended the DP with a section of 2.5" 316 pipe I got home.

I reuse the stock turbo bolts since there are Stover Nuts and not the one coming in the kit
without the DP modification it would take me 5h like the other guys, with the mod I add a 2h of work, cut, tac weld, test fit, weld, clean and install
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
yes but it may be a problem related to my axle back exhaust, I did have gap (can't recall how much but remember it wasn't perfect) when I did it and this wasn't a problem but now with a new part that bring a other acceptable gap it bring the over all diff to 1/2" and didn't like the idea of stressing the flex pipe so much. since my exhaust system is not stock I don't blame Tork for this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Update!

I can't recall who said it, but He got loosen bolt problem on the under engine shield/cover.
here or on the FB group and he state he got lower engine mount plus Pierce frame.
I only got the lower mount and I end up loosing the front bolt of the shield... didn't take much here with the snow to destroy it...
luckily for me I got a Korean and not Alabama built car. the shield 29110-F2100 only cost 60$ instead of the 29110-F3100 at 250$
So, for those with engine mount i suggest to use loctite on the 4 front bolts.

this 2 built location also make me realize diff in the intercooler and piping system.
Korean one have the DV lower and a complete diff piping route (hot and cold side)

and to complete the Downpipe saga... yes the stock DP was seal tight to the exhaust setup, I had to pry it for removal, so the Tork unit is 1/2" shorter than stock.
this is probably the main reason why I decide to go custom Intercooler setup. Tork price is good but I didn't want to have this kind of problem again.

should start building the IC setup this weekend!

For now I keep planing to go with Tork for the tune. let be honest they have the nicest, by far, power curve adv. no bouncing and really linear.
will probably wait for the next sale to jump in
 
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luckily for me I got a Korean and not Alabama built car...this 2 built location also make me realize diff in the intercooler and piping system.
Korean one have the DV lower and a complete diff piping route (hot and cold side)
Not sure where you are getting this info but all Elantra Sports are built in Korea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
https://www.hyundaipartsdeal.com/

if you can see the DV it's US made
I saw some pics of the DV accessible from top and was wondering how it was possible


EDIT I miss it is only the 1.4l turbo made in US
 

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Welp, at least I know now I won't be getting a Tork downpipe and to hold out for a Sxth DP instead.

Keep up the solid work though man! I'm waiting on some more parts to come in before I decide to make a thread lol.
 
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