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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
- Bought it yesterday from Butler, PA
- Drove back home to D.C.
- Ordered Bosch Icon wipers to get rid of the OEM trash
- Replaced all the interior bulbs with LEDs including the trunk lamp and reverse bulbs.
- Replaced the rear turn signals with LED bulbs with integrated resistors to prevent hyperblinking
- Ordered K&N engine and cabin air filters
- Ordered a Stahlbus oil drain valve
- Picked up a few gallons of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and OEM oil filters
 

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I recommend to use the Pennzoil Platinum instead of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. The Pennzoil Platinum was redesigned to new formula specific for TGDI with new GM dexos1 Gen 2 and API SN PLUS on / after the manufacturing date May 2018. But not for Pennzoil Ultra Platinum yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
While I appreciate the input; no.

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is what I’ll be using. I use it in the Camaro, the Tucson, the Accord and now the Elantra.

I have had 0 issues with it since I began using it coupled with OEM filters.

Oil is always a personal preference and I have mine. The manual calls for API SM*4 & ILSAC GF-4 (or above) ACEA A5*3 (or above), which Ultra Platinum exceeds. Therefore, I’m going with what I know.

UOAs have never been off base with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
- Removed the stupid dealership sticker from the trunk
- Changed the deslership’s oil and filter. Filled with 4.75QTS of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 and a Hyundai/Kia OEM Oil Filter
- Installed Bosch Icon wipers

Spent the bulk of the day washing and detailing the Camaro for winter storage. Connected it to the battery tender, waxed the paint, cleaned the interior, etc. Filled the tank and added STABIL. Inflated the tires to 50psi (Max PSI for the tires) Called GEICO and moved it to the storage plan.
 

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For someone as defensive as you are, you might want to be a bit more open minded to suggestions as a few of us have a bit more experience with these cars than you do.

For starters, if you want your 1.6 to last toss the 5w30 in the trash and switch to a good 5w40 synthetic. This has been a TSB with Hyundai regarding the TGDI engines for years, and for good reason.

Second. Catch cans should be your first mod as a preventative maintenance measure. But, that’s up to you and your wallet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
For someone as defensive as you are, you might want to be a bit more open minded to suggestions as a few of us have a bit more experience with these cars than you do.

For starters, if you want your 1.6 to last toss the 5w30 in the trash and switch to a good 5w40 synthetic. This has been a TSB with Hyundai regarding the TGDI engines for years, and for good reason.

Second. Catch cans should be your first mod as a preventative maintenance measure. But, that’s up to you and your wallet.
Well hello to you to, I hope you’re having a fantastic day.

I just don’t really care about the opinions of forum members who claim to have vast experience but are collectively a fraction of a percentage of owners with this car and an even smaller fraction that have experience with this engine.

Meanwhile, I have 3 current generation 1.6Ts, each of varying age and mileage, all receiving the same treatment and all with a clean bill health and while that no way makes me an expert on this engine, it also doesn’t mean I have no experience and also doesn’t give me the right to tell other people with the same car/engine how to maintain theirs. But you folks are hilarious so please continue on telling other members what they need to do with their own cars. It’s one thing to make a suggestion based on experience or even personal preference but it’s another altogether to force your subjectivity onto someone else.

In my climate and with my driving style, it’s unnecessary to run 5w40. The warranty is lengthy, and beyond that, I can handle whatever repair related issues arise.

I handle my own maintenance, keep detailed logs, check oil levels periodically, change the oil far sooner than I probably should and get UOAs religiously.

This isn’t my first or second car. It’s the 3rd being added to the stable and will be driven sparingly at most, 5 months out of the year.

Catch-can or not, the intake tract will gunk up. The catch-can may slow down the process, even though the data on that is dubious at best, but it’s not going to stop it and it’s not 100%. It’s a nice to have but certainly not a necessity. I also clean my intake tract, including the valves, after about 20,000 miles on a DI motor. So once again, maintenance that I handle so a catch can may be added at some point but I’ll just end up cleaning the intake anyway. But once again, continue to tell me how I should be maintaining my car.
 

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In my climate and with my driving style, it’s unnecessary to run 5w40.
See attached photo.


Catch-can or not, the intake tract will gunk up. The catch-can may slow down the process, even though the data on that is dubious at best, but it’s not going to stop it and it’s not 100%. It’s a nice to have but certainly not a necessity.
I had about 1/4" of fluid in the can after a recent trip from AZ to CO. I mean you can either let that **** get into the engine or you can do something about. Catch cans are not snake oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
In my climate and with my driving style, it’s unnecessary to run 5w40.
See attached photo.


Catch-can or not, the intake tract will gunk up. The catch-can may slow down the process, even though the data on that is dubious at best, but it’s not going to stop it and it’s not 100%. It’s a nice to have but certainly not a necessity.
I had about 1/4" of fluid in the can after a recent trip from AZ to CO. I mean you can either let that **** get into the engine or you can do something about. Catch cans are not snake oil.
Totally agree with you, not snake oil and also not 100% effective. Some stuff is certainly stopped from going into the intake. It’s a small, relatively inexpensive, additional safety measure.

However, it does not excuse the fact that a manual intake cleaning particularly addressing the valves should be done. Whatever the catch can doesn’t catch ends up there anyway. The catch can may extend the interval of that cleaning by some thousands of miles but it doesn’t alleviate the necessity of that cleaning. It’s part of my typical 2 year maintenance on all my DI cars along with some before and after scope pictures.

Thanks for the screenshot! Makes sense for a lot of folks who spend lots of time commuting, live in harsher climates, etc. at the detriment of fuel economy. I’ll run what I have, continue my UOAs, and make the swap once I’m out of 5w30 stock. I won’t rush out now and drain the oil in all the cars. The UOAs are showing what I use to be holding up quite well, and I often change it far too early due to time as opposed to mileage. I have enough 5w30 to last until at least the start of Spring so I may not be a 5w40 convert until next Fall.
 

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See attached photo.



I had about 1/4" of fluid in the can after a recent trip from AZ to CO. I mean you can either let that **** get into the engine or you can do something about. Catch cans are not snake oil.
Interestingly. I sent that Bulletin of to Hyundai Australia.. And that does not effect Australian Hyundai vehicles

Apologises for being of thread to OP
 

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Interestingly. I sent that Bulletin of to Hyundai Australia.. And that does not effect Australian Hyundai vehicles
The TSB may not pertain to Australian vehicles, but internally the engines are the same so it is still beneficial to use it. Especially in the warmer months.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It’s not something that’s an absolute necessity but the temperature range for 5w40 does cover most climates so it’s usage does make sense. There’s no rush to do an oil change immediately but in subsequent changes a swap to 5w40 does make sense.
 

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For someone as defensive as you are, you might want to be a bit more open minded to suggestions as a few of us have a bit more experience with these cars than you do.

For starters, if you want your 1.6 to last toss the 5w30 in the trash and switch to a good 5w40 synthetic. This has been a TSB with Hyundai regarding the TGDI engines for years, and for good reason.

Second. Catch cans should be your first mod as a preventative maintenance measure. But, that’s up to you and your wallet.
What 5w40 do you recommend? I've been using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30. I see that Pennzoil doesn't have a 5w40 except for Euro.
 

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What 5w40 do you recommend? I've been using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30. I see that Pennzoil doesn't have a 5w40 except for Euro.
The Euro is good stuff. I use Motul Xcess 8100 which is great stuff. Castrol as well
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Rotella T6 has been recently (within the past couple of years) reformulated and is a really good full synthetic 5w40 as well. You can probably find it more easily than Motul (which is very good —I use it in my motorcycle) and Pennzoil Euro.
 
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