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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I figured I may as well start a thread on my 2018 DCT ES build, so far I have a rear sway bar from sxth and intake a tuned ecu from lap3 and a muffler delete from sxth. With the recent july 4th deal lap3 posted including the turbo kit I had to jump on it and I know some of you guys are hesitant on getting it, so I decided to take this thread to possibly show some steps I may take in building the LAP3 turbo kit and such and to follow my build throughout the year :) look forward to the build progress and I hope I can be helpful to those that want to figure out how the **** all this works XD!!!

Wanted to update so people can more immediately see what this thread is about, ill put more updates here instead but here is my previous update notes in another forum post
https://www.elantrasport.com/forum/...rt-turbo-today/9901-my-lap3-build-thread.html
Ask questions away and ill try to answer them if you want some info on the build.

Here is a quick pick of the turbo for those interested, it includes an external waste gate an exhaust manifold and of course the turbo. You also purchase a tune along side this kit when buying.
but look at that snail XD
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Here is the full review and semi breakdown on the build.


If you do not have many tools in your garage or space, it is not worth spending hundreds of dollars just to do this DIY, take it to a professional shop to do this please and dont waste your time unless you are confident in what you are doing!!


Difficulty = 7/10 (it mostly just takes time and patience when you do this yourself)

Note: Make sure you have a large selection of "simple" tools like sockets breaker bars a drill etc.

important sockets:
8mm (for all the hose clamps)
17mm (for Suspension components and subframe)
14mm (parts of subframe mostly front swaybar brackets and steering rack as well as some misc bolts)
12mm (i hope i remembered this right but its either a 12 or 14 to remove the bolts for the exhaust manifold)
10mm (not many a couple random bolts in the engine bay holding together small items)
22mm (for wheel lugs)
19mm (for subframe items)
18mm (subframe items)

Important tools and items:
Drill with a taping kit (to drill a hole into the turbo or chargpipe to get boost readings for the waste gate) we used a 1/4 inch bit tap for
jacks and jack stands (self explanatory)
universal joints and low profile wrenches with spinning sockets on the end (forgot what they are called)
extra coolant (entire jug/ as if you are doing a coolant flush)
extra oil (not much less than a quart is lost)
breaker bar
torque wrench
pliers
a flat heat screw driver
EXTRA PEOPLE TO HELP AT LEAST 2 PEOPLE IN TOTAL AT A MIN TO DO THIS JOB

First steps (prep):
Set aside an entire day or two to do this yourself as the car will be inoperable until build is finished.
1: unbolt wheels and lift the car
2: drain all of you coolant, might as well do an oil change while you are at it and drain your old oil as you will need to replace it with 5w-40
3: start removing your intake system and disconnect the battery
4: remove the intake and unbolt the intake pipe
5: get under the car and remove the midpipe that houses your 2nd cat and unbolt the o2 sensor on it (use hand tools)
6: for ease and to make sure your sensors dont get mangled its recommended you find your 2 sensors (for downpipe and midpipe) which are connected together ontop of you engine bay, and disconnect them completely so they dont twist or rip off when you remove your exhaust manifold.

Intermediary:
1: start unbolting the front swaybar endlinks.

2: this is also a good time to unbolt the steering rack to the subframe as access maybe easy when the wheels are off

3: unbolt subframe bolts, start from the middle and work your way out, the last bolt of the subframe you take out should be a giant 18mm/19mm nut on the toe of the subframe. Remove anything else that hold the thing in place.
Note: there is also a bolt that goes through the control arm into the subframe (2 to be exact) so make sure to remove those as well before the last bolts.
Also remove the dog bone lower engine mount as it will prevent the subframe from being removed as well. NOTE: once dog bone is removed from subframe the engine will have a tendency to sway if a lot of force is applied, do not worry as thats natural and the engine will not fall down you are safe.

4: once the last bolt is out you will need to wiggle and even hit the subframe to remove it from the control arms, its heavy so make sure you use a spare jack to hold up the weight and have a friend get ready to lower it down.

5: once out you have access to the lower engine bay. This is a good time to remove the intake pipe completely from the engine and also remove any wiring involving your oem turbo (it will not be needed, like the oem boost solenoid, but MAKE SURE TO KEEP EVERYTHING)

6: from here i recommend installing your new oil lines with the ss lines that came with the kit. They are screwed into the top of the turbo.

7: once done you are ready to unbolt the manifold from the engine using a 12mm socket. It may seem hard to find but you are able to reach all bolts from the top of the engine bay, and is the easier way to remove all the bolts, they are not tight and with a small extension can be removed by hand

8: at this point in time you are basically half way done, it might have sounded easy, well it is, it just takes some elbow grease and time for some of these things. a lot of bolts you need to remove are note mentioned since there are simply so many small ones that are part of the turbo system you will need to remove, they are simple and hand tools are more than enough to remove them all. be patient and take it slowly, do not rush and pull out things you didnt need to and end up breaking things that would have been easily avoided.

Post oem turbo removal:
1: get your lap 3 xcargot kit and dissasemble it, waste gate and snail are held together with mental clamps, all clamps must be removed to take apart the kit.
2: Take compressed air and clean the kit as well as you can as dust and shipping / small debre is most likely just in the system naturally from handling. you do not want any residue in the system.
3: with the snail removed from the manifold this is the time to tap the turbo to get boost readings. you will take the tapping tool and you will find this cylindrical nub on the side of the intake of the turbo. that is where you will drill into.
4: using a tapping kit and tapping oil (always use tapping oil, or else you will ruin everything not just for this but for any taps) make it as centered as possible and go SLOWLY. Clean as you go and make sure you do not slip. once you drilled through and a tap is created take at least 10-15 minutes of using compressed air to remove ALL particulates and aluminum shavings from the snail.
5: reassemble the kit. and install the exhaust manifold using the new 9 nuts they send you. (you will reuse the exhaust gasket if you have low mileage (under 10k ish) if not make sure to mention to LAP3 rep so they can accommodate. The new manifold should make putting it back in super easy. Make sure you also have a SS line going from the wastegate to the turbo (for boost readings) SSlines of course provided bby LAP3.

6: you will also need to plug up your old oem oil feed port on your engine, a little metal cover is provided for you to screw it in to block off the old engine oil feed, the new oil feed will be located next to your oil filter and it will use the oil pressure sensor's port. you can retain oil sensor by buying a T fitting so you can attache both sensor and stainless steel oil feed line.

7: This is also now the time to block off the old coolant feed lines. there will be 2 lines coming from a feed and return coolant line on the left of the engine. What we decided to do is get a new hose and loop the coolant pipes back into each other so it creates a closed circuit, this is also accommodated with some good hose clamps to prevent leaking.

8: install the new oil drain nub thing onto the turbo , and use the silicone pipe provided to route the drain side of the turbo around the drive shaft.

9: from here you will use the thinnest looking SS pipe to replace part of the oem hotside pipe, this will delete the resonator that resides in the charge pipe as well. use the provided rubber boots and brackets to get this one.

10: use another rubber boot to attached to the intake side of turbo, and grab the pipe with brackets attached to route intake above the engine. the remaining 2 large 3 inch pipes finish the intake system, and a new filter will need to be bought. this will be your new intake system, or if you want you can fab up your OEM intake or sxth intake.

11: at this point its time to just resemble the car back together.

12: make sure your tuned ECU is installed and the car already has 93 octane or whatever octane that was discussed. Make sure you also have hks spark plugs that run 1 stop colder.

13: refill coolant as needed and check for leaks to make sure you are all good.

14: turn car on and prep the turbo by cranking the car but stop cranking before the 2nd turn (before the car actually starts) this allows the turbo to be lubed up and not run dry which is bad. (DO NOT START THE CAR WITHOUT THE SUBFRAME BACK IN OR THE ENGINE WILL TWIST ITSELF TO DEATH)

15: you are more or less done, do your final checks and turn off the car, put the wheels back on lower and take a quick test drive. DO NOT WOT untill cars OIL is warmed up not the coolant temp. (generally 10 minutes)
16: check to see if your car is still running straight (mine ran perfectly straight) but sometimes car can be misaligned from subframe being removed. drive for about 30 seconds first, get out check for leaks and things are in order. Drive for 5 more minutes check. Drive 10 minutes and test a slow WOT run, another check. Always keep some coolant and oil in the car JUST IN CASE. Take it easy but also test the car our slowly for the next week to make sure the install went smoothly.

IF all works congradulations you have install the lap3 xcargot turbo kit and you are one of us /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif

Pics included /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
A week / 2 update, the car had a coolant leak but that was fixed by tightening a a clamp on a tube neat :), power delivery is pretty different now, spool starts around 2.5k rpm and really picks up about 3k rpm, then continues to spool out to around 4k where i believe it hits max boost. The power curve is extremely linear like an NA car once boost kicks it and like an NA car it keeps accelerating through the rev range and doesnt die down in power. NICE!. Normal mode generally keeps you below the range where boost is generated so you kinda save gas XD im still hitting around 32-35 mpg with the 91 octane e85 mix tune which is neat. Had to put muffler back on while the entire family is home and I have to drive em around because the dam thing is loud. But with the new turbo kit and the muffler back on its silent and no one can tell you are modified besides the smell of a catless car, but who will second guess you :). overall its holding its own, will still need to

1: chop a piece of the engine in the back thats hitting against the intake system (for some reason this piece is only in our US cars and not found in ES's overseas) its like a small metal piece sticking out to hold in the oem intake pipe.
2: potentially clean up the intake setup a bit more by finding better fittings (but hope is to beable to keep using my sxth intake)
3: get and install a boost solenoid, getting hooked up with a deal from a friend who works at an aftermarkets parts distributor, and messaging their partnered performance shop to get a quote on install. maybe for some of the fab work as well.
4: Drag strip is only a 50 minute drive and opens to public every wednesday so hopefully I can drop by at some point :)
 

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Nice build. I am a car nut and love cars and have done a fair share of mods on cars over the years. I have to ask though why on this platform? Why not get a used Subaru STi or WRX or a used Golf GTI and start with more? A 1.6L motor can only put out so much and when you start modding you become a car engineer looking for the weak link in the drive train.

Rob.
 

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Nice build. I am a car nut and love cars and have done a fair share of mods on cars over the years. I have to ask though why on this platform? Why not get a used Subaru STi or WRX or a used Golf GTI and start with more? A 1.6L motor can only put out so much and when you start modding you become a car engineer looking for the weak link in the drive train.

Rob.
Because everyone expects that of a GTI and STI and both of which have their own host of problems.

The ES is unique in that aspect that nobody expects it
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Because everyone expects that of a GTI and STI and both of which have their own host of problems.

The ES is unique in that aspect that nobody expects it
This statement is true and also, I paid in soo much lower than a wrx or gti, like over 10 grand lower and to reach these numbers is really cool. not to mention Its something unique and I always wanted to show the world that Korean cars are stepping **** up, much like the new N cars coming over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I Figured some people would like to see my car after all the mods I have done to it so here it is, A Before when it was stock, and an AFTER: with Sxth rear Sway,intake, muffler delete(tho its not on now bc of noise complaints),
Lap3 Mods: Tial external wastegate, aftermarket exhaust manifold Xcargot 26 Turbo, Lap3 e30 Tune, and some stickers.
 

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Nice build. I am a car nut and love cars and have done a fair share of mods on cars over the years. I have to ask though why on this platform? Why not get a used Subaru STi or WRX or a used Golf GTI and start with more? A 1.6L motor can only put out so much and when you start modding you become a car engineer looking for the weak link in the drive train.

Rob.
Is this the only reason you joined here, to say that? I think you're on the wrong forum.
 

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A week / 2 update, the car had a coolant leak but that was fixed by tightening a a clamp on a tube neat :), power delivery is pretty different now, spool starts around 2.5k rpm and really picks up about 3k rpm, then continues to spool out to around 4k where i believe it hits max boost. The power curve is extremely linear like an NA car once boost kicks it and like an NA car it keeps accelerating through the rev range and doesnt die down in power. NICE!. Normal mode generally keeps you below the range where boost is generated so you kinda save gas XD im still hitting around 32-35 mpg with the 91 octane e85 mix tune which is neat. Had to put muffler back on while the entire family is home and I have to drive em around because the dam thing is loud. But with the new turbo kit and the muffler back on its silent and no one can tell you are modified besides the smell of a catless car, but who will second guess you :)
Thanks for the heads up, i have a catless DP and gutted secondary cat, as a family car, noise levels are just about right. I am surprised to hear you got noise complaints tho, unless you are putting your foot into it, keeping it under 2.5k should be fine, but then again you did just get a serious power upgrade.... lol Have fun with it! Lap3 tunes are not known for their over the top pops and bangs.. Mines more of a slight growl under throttle, crackles under deceleration and slight pops/bangs on more spirited shifts, I also still have the factory exhaust resonator which from my understanding really cuts the lower frequencies out(drone), I don't feel a 1.6l 4 banger should sound too throaty though.... But super glad to see someone in Merica stepping up and getting the Lap3 turbo upgrade! WTG!!!! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the heads up, i have a catless DP and gutted secondary cat, as a family car, noise levels are just about right. I am surprised to hear you got noise complaints tho, unless you are putting your foot into it, keeping it under 2.5k should be fine, but then again you did just get a serious power upgrade.... lol Have fun with it! Lap3 tunes are not known for their over the top pops and bangs.. Mines more of a slight growl under throttle, crackles under deceleration and slight pops/bangs on more spirited shifts, I also still have the factory exhaust resonator which from my understanding really cuts the lower frequencies out(drone), I don't feel a 1.6l 4 banger should sound too throaty though.... But super glad to see someone in Merica stepping up and getting the Lap3 turbo upgrade! WTG!!!! :D
haha thanks, the cold startup is very loud so i dont think neighbors wer too fond of it when i start it up around 6am in the morning XD,

In another update, I am going to get my boost controller installed today so I'll post an update once that is installed and im making 22psi of boost. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
LOOONG DAY first mod i had someone else install and they fudged it the first time XD. they piped the controller as if it was an internal wastegate but i have an external tial wastegate as you can seeee. Luckily they fixed it for free but took an extra couple hrs rip.

But here is the quick review!!!
-------------------------------'
Currently the greddy profec controller setting is:
Off: i have 17.4 psi of boost
Lowboost: 19.8 psi of boost
Highboost: 23.8 psi of boost
(These are NOT estimates these are actual readings on the controller)

Tldr going from 17 to 24 is basically kinda insane... from previous dyno numbers on lap3 site adding roughly 60whp probably no lie XD I already scared friends with 17psi cant imagine what they will be like when i come back with 24 hahha.

Go figures that the only install i didnt do myself ended up getting fudged. But thanks for David Chung for assisting in troubleshooting when the initial install was bleh and notifying me the piping was wrong. #lap3 for the win.

Getting home sucked and i was testing these settings to maintain constant boost so no video today but tomorrow or this week ill get a video going with a suction mount i got for my phone to attatched to the sunroof.

Dyno eventually bc for some reason shops around here dont like opening on weekends...

More stuff to come in the future!!

P.S car still looks stock AF so cant rrly pic for attention can I XD.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hoo Boi Its been a while, been slightly inactive in building the car because Ive been back in school, and have ben pinching the money after wards :> tho Its been about 7-8k miles on the car since the install and the car is still running and boosting still happy :> Here are some better pictures I took of the boost controller to give max Aesthetics. Links because i cant compress the pics any more than to 1.5mb because of forum limits :>.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1a_HnDU7Q3Ad5BpfdODyydJxOJ77QsuoE
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VfMy1Qokr1emuLzupXp-w5BITMTONN97
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
But here is the real build update, The car will be getting new front brake rotors from EBC (
EBC Brakes - EBC USR Series Sport Slotted Rotor Front Disc Brake Rotor)

And I will be grabbing some Porterfield r4s which i believe kdmtuners and pierce motorsports now offer on the ES platform.

And further proof of how much a beating the car has taken like a champ, here is a video of my car ripping through some mountains at not too fast a speed, but this is what i typically do 1-2 times a week.

v=ZwJn8vleUyE&t=228s[/url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwJn8vleUyE&t=228s

the youtube in text video might not work so just click youtube :)

Hope my guides here are use-full to some and gives confidence in purchasing something as big as a big turbo kit / tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for the repost, that is indeed the link, thanks for correcting it here are some additional videos and a semi recent video of car running some mountains.


 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
New update, though its kinda late. My car has now installed the Sxth Element intercooler kit with a HKS BOV which you can hear in the "death by squeek" yt video i uploaded.

The instsall is very straight forward if you follow sxths instructions it should be easy enough. The compatibility with the Lap3 turbo kit is good. The only thing I would recommend purchasing alongside the intercooler kit if you decide to go with the lap3 turbo kit is to get a 45 degree coupler to attatch the hotside pipe to the turbo outlet side. If you dont the supplied 90 degree coupler works just fine, but needs a bit of finessing.

Besides that everything else just bolts on as if the car was never modified. HKS has a 2 stage blow off so it sometimes sounds like flutter but it is not i can assure you.

Most interesting note, even though my wastegate springs are rated at 17psi, with the intercooler upgrade I am now holding 20psi on wastegate springs. Unsure if the factory BOV was just leaking boost or if the airflow or whatever just bumped my "stock" psi up, either way, cruising and moving temps remain around 10-15 degree above ambient. Of course at a standstill it will still be hot and stop and go is the same because when the turbo is not going it just heatsoaks, which there really is no way to fix that entirely.

I have also deleted my intake pipes and threw a cone filter right on the turbo to reduce complexity and mess in the engine bay. There has been no real change in intake temps when I did this, though you get more spool sounds and a lot more RAW spool sounds as there is no extra pipe it goes thru.

Build so far also includes some Mitchi ps4s which still chirp a bit but does not spin freely like the stock all season garbage XD.

Hopefully i can get a dyno run soon. and a track day as the most recent day i was supposed to go to the track had to be forgone because of someone rear ending me. car is slated to be returned to me in 2 weeks but by that time I will be back in school :/ will try to keep updated here when i can though.
 
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