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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey Everyone,
I bought my 2017 Hyundai Elantra Sport (my second Hyundai Elantra) back in early March. I actually had quite an ordeal getting the "Electric-Blue" model with a standard 6-speed manual. The wait was worth it.

I am a longtime SCCA member and active solo racer. I purchased my Sport with the intent of competing in the H-Street (HS) SCCA solo class.

In the HS class, we are allowed to replace the OEM spec paper air filter element with a K&N filter drop-in replacement filter. Which I have done.

We are also allowed to add, replace or remove the front or rear sway bar - but not both! I plan to remove the front sway bar.

We are also allowed to use any aftermarket or racing coilover shock assemblies (with any custom shock valving or methods of shock valve adjustments), but with no ride-height adjustments on the spring perches and must use the factory OEM coilover springs. The original factory ride height must be maintained.

We are allowed any aftermarket catback exhaust system or muffler (behind the original OEM catalytic converter), but must exit out to the rear of the car.
In addition, we can go up or down 1" in wheel diameter, but must strictly adhere to factory wheel offset and rim width.

Any size tire may be used, but it must be have a 200-treadwear rating and must be available in at least three different tire diameters with a minimum of 8 different aspect ratio sizes.

I have currently tested and run my Sport with some TSW Nurburgring 17" x 7.5" lightweight alloy wheels wrapped with some P255/40ZR-17 Hankook RS4 tires. This tire/combo fits without any issues whatsoever.

The Sport in this configuration handles incredibly well.

The only issue that I have encountered is that once I am deep into the throttle on the course and have to back off and slowdown for a curve or turn and then try to get back into the throttle --- there is absolutely nothing there! No power whatsoever, it's as if the whole engine was completely shutoff or the ECU cut all the timing & power deliver out of the engine!!!

Any ideas why this is happening???

I even "watered-down" the intake manifold and the intercooler with a portable garden sprayer between runs, but to no avail.

Would appreciate some advice on what to do to alleviate this major power delivery issue.

*Special Note: We are not allowed to mess with, alter or replace any of the stock engine or turbo components on the vehicle as delivered from the factory.

This is the first turbocharged vehicle I have ever owned or raced.


Thanks!
Luis
 

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Hey Everyone,
I bought my 2017 Hyundai Elantra Sport (my second Hyundai Elantra) back in early March. I actually had quite an ordeal getting the "Electric-Blue" model with a standard 6-speed manual. The wait was worth it.
Welcome! Be sure to check out our facebook group if you'd like. Also, patience is a virtue on the blue. I wanted the same but settled for the Galactic Gray. I have no patience. :p

In addition, we can go up or down 1" in wheel diameter, but must strictly adhere to factory wheel offset and rim width.

Any size tire may be used, but it must be have a 200-treadwear rating and must be available in at least three different tire diameters with a minimum of 8 different aspect ratio sizes.

I have currently tested and run my Sport with some TSW Nurburgring 17" x 7.5" lightweight alloy wheels wrapped with some P255/40ZR-17 Hankook RS4 tires. This tire/combo fits without any issues whatsoever.
Any pics of this setup? Very interested as I planned on going with a 17x8 with 245's.

The only issue that I have encountered is that once I am deep into the throttle on the course and have to back off and slowdown for a curve or turn and then try to get back into the throttle --- there is absolutely nothing there! No power whatsoever, it's as if the whole engine was completely shutoff or the ECU cut all the timing & power deliver out of the engine!!!
Might be a stupid question, but have you turned off the traction control? The car will fall on it's face if you punch the gas and it's on.
 

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Welcome to the forum!

I second the question on traction control. It's a huge nanny and will shut down any party you're trying to have.
I'm interested in your thoughts on removing the front bar.

We'll have a rear sway bar option out here very soon as well as a cat-back system. Those should help you thru the courses quicker!
 

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"We are also allowed to use any aftermarket or racing coilover shock assemblies (with any custom shock valving or methods of shock valve adjustments), but with no ride-height adjustments on the spring perches and must use the factory OEM coilover springs. The original factory ride height must be maintained."

You CAN use any damper (strut/shock) that maintains the use of the stock springs/perches--NO COILOVERS (threaded perches). Generally speaking, you can use something like KONI 8610/8611 inserts or if they become offered Koni "Yellows" or Bilstein Sports. Something like KSport, Ceika, Tein, Feal, B&C etc. coilover will not be legal in street class.

"We are also allowed to add, replace or remove the front or rear sway bar - but not both! I plan to remove the front sway bar."

I don't think I would do this. Get a bigger RSB--a few are in development, including Pierce Motorsports. Removing the FSB only makes sense if you can run much higher spring rates on a McStrut suspension. The turn-in and transitioning of the car will be diminished without the bar.

I have been doing solo since 1988 and seriously since 1992. I have a full-prepped National level FSP Escort ZX2 (with a remote reservoir double-adjustable coilover setup) and have spent some time developing and selling sway bars when I was involved with the Ford Focus community. I run sway bars on the ZX2--and have 800/700 pound springs. Keep the FSB on, and tune with the rear...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes!
I turned off the traction and stability control settings on my ES before proceeding out on the course!
The ES has a huge understeer problem with the front sway bar connected.
I do understand that having front shocks with much stiffer valving (massive compression valving would be much appreciated), but after running the ES on a very technical course, the front understeer was massive!
I having years of solo experience with many national, regional and local titles and awards along the way.
I too have a very nationally-competitive FSP 1984 Honda CRX.
 

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"In addition, we can go up or down 1" in wheel diameter, but must strictly adhere to factory wheel offset and rim width."

The rules allow for +/- 1" in diameter, as you stated. They also allow for a 7mm variance in offset; I believe the OE 18x7.5" wheels are ET55, so you can run ET48 to ET62 to be legal.
 

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Yes!
I turned off the traction and stability control settings on my ES before proceeding out on the course!
The ES has a huge understeer problem with the front sway bar connected.
I do understand that having front shocks with much stiffer valving (massive compression valving would be much appreciated), but after running the ES on a very technical course, the front understeer was massive!
I having years of solo experience with many national, regional and local titles and awards along the way.
I too have a very nationally-competitive FSP 1984 Honda CRX.
Have you already removed it and felt like it's better? Consider running a smaller FSB (base model), perhaps, but not "none". Again, my experience has been that you need high spring rate--otherwise on a STRUT car, the outside tire will have massive camber gain under compression. That's not so good...

I'll still say, run the big bar in back...
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Have you already removed it and felt like it's better? Consider running a smaller FSB (base model), perhaps, but not "none". Again, my experience has been that you need high spring rate--otherwise on a STRUT car, the outside tire will have massive camber gain under compression. That's not so good...

I'll still say, run the big bar in back...

Erik you have to bear in mind that the ES does not have a Limited-Slip diff in it and that when you compete in solo conditions with a FWD vehicle with front strut suspension (and the ES front bar is a massive one) that not only does the car understeer heavily, but it also tends to lift the inside front tire off the ground allowing the open diff to have excessive wheelspin in the turns or sweepers.
This is the reason that I would not use a front sway bar on the ES.
I ran my 1990 Honda CRX Si (in HS) without the front sway bar on it and the car handled incredibly well even without Koni Sport shocks on it. The front tires both stayed planted to the ground in turns and sweepers and the car felt like it had an LSD in it. Zero understeer!
 

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The CRX had wishbones. They don't gain camber on compression.
 

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I ran a 2006 Jetta in HS back in 2007. At that time the rules only allowed a FSB change. Conventional wisdom on FWD *strut* (NOT HONDAS) cars was to run a BIGGER FSB, even though that is counterintuitive based on how bars are supposed to work. I switched from the stock bar to a big FSB and the car improved. This was also the recipe in the Focus community, though my Focus was an STS car at the time (2003-05).

Now that the rules have loosened, and RSB changes are allowed in lieu of FSB only, it seems most are going to a bigger RSB. I might suggest posting about this on the Facebook page, and tag Jim Pierce. I'd be curious to see his imput.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Welcome to the forum!

I second the question on traction control. It's a huge nanny and will shut down any party you're trying to have.
I'm interested in your thoughts on removing the front bar.

We'll have a rear sway bar option out here very soon as well as a cat-back system. Those should help you thru the courses quicker!
If you do have thoughts about designing a rear sway bar for the ES that would be great!
In the SCCA Solo H-Street class, you can only add or remove the front or rear sway to remain legal for the class.

So I am pretty sure that you would have to come up the a "Speedway" type or "Bladed" fully-adjustable rear sway bar. The standard-size ES rear sway bar is 15mm in diameter. I am thinking that the rear sway bar should be in the neighborhood of around 18mm to 20mm in diameter with at least 3 to 4 levels of adjustment. It would great if the bar was a hollow, not a solid one.
 

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Both SXTH-Element and Pierce Motorsports will have RSB's soon...

...and the Gen 1 CRX indeed had a strut as a damper--but also used torsion bars.

You certainly seemed convinced--I eagerly await your commentary on how the no FSB setup works. It would be the least expenisve way to go. Hopefully it will make the car work versus the FiSTs.


 
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