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I just signed papers on my 18’ sport 6speed with 56000 km. Near Stratford Ontario. Any mods you guys would recommend? Anything that’s a must do mod? Thanks in advance! View attachment 18284
I have the Takeda Momentum CAI, with the GFB BOV T9211. Love this combo setup, one of my best mods I have ever done to any of my cars.
 

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Thanks! Any noticeable difference? Also any companies that sell nice front lips? And sideskirts? I’m not keen on ordering Amazon ones that might fit
There's some good aero stuff on Tuscanicustoms.com

Whatever you go with, make sure it's attached properly with nuts and bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
There's some good aero stuff on Tuscanicustoms.com

Whatever you go with, make sure it's attached properly with nuts and bolts.
I’ve been on uniqperformance.ca and found a couple pieces. I’ve got a used set of eibach lowering springs I found on marketplace for a good price I’m going to throw on until I get coils. I read somewhere the ecu is limited to about 15 ish hp over stock? How accurate is that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Pierburg wastegate solenoid. If you got it used, you should change the fluids and if you're in Ontario, you might want to look into snow tires. Check your air and cabin filters also
Yeah I bought it from a dealer but I’ll definitely be doing new fluids. Is the bov solenoid worth it too? Snow tires are a must as I’ll be working in New York City all winter into the spring and driving back and forth to Ontario once a month
 

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I’ve been on uniqperformance.ca and found a couple pieces. I’ve got a used set of eibach lowering springs I found on marketplace for a good price I’m going to throw on until I get coils. I read somewhere the ecu is limited to about 15 ish hp over stock? How accurate is that?
The stock ECU will limit power around 190whp, yes. Most bolt-ons won't do much without a tune.
 

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Is a scorcher a way to deal with that or is sending the ecu away the only way?
A Scorcher is what is often referred to as a sensor fooler. It tricks the ECU into thinking that it is running normal, when it's actually running more boost. It's cheap speed and not recommended. Something like a JB4 or SXTH Rev6 are better when it comes to piggyback systems. Whether or not you go with a piggyback or an actual tune, other upgrades are recommended. Colder plugs, catch can, 5w40 oil at minimum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the info! One final question. Bc coils and the ysr camber arms can I make 18x8.5 +30 work? Offset has always confused me lol. I come from the truck world where offset doesn’t mean much beyond how far my 12 wides stuck past the fenders lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the info! One final question. Bc coils and the ysr camber arms can I make 18x8.5 +30 work? Offset has always confused me lol. I come from the truck world where offset doesn’t mean much beyond how far my 12 wides stuck past the fenders lol
I’ve read 18x8.5 +40 is pretty much flush but will ten mil less push it closer to the strut?
 

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Thanks for the info! One final question. Bc coils and the ysr camber arms can I make 18x8.5 +30 work? Offset has always confused me lol. I come from the truck world where offset doesn’t mean much beyond how far my 12 wides stuck past the fenders lol
You don't need camber arms in the rear unless you want the stiffer bushings, the stock arms will adjust pretty far. For wheel fitment, these cars are kind of a pain to get right because the front track width is narrower than the rear. So you can run a wider wheel up front (I ran a 17x9 +40 easily) but you are not fitting that same size wheel in the rear without problems. If you want a bolt-on solution that requires no additional work, 18x8 +45 is where I would go.

For offset, the smaller the number the more it pokes out of the fender. +30 will stick out further than +40.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You don't need camber arms in the rear unless you want the stiffer bushings, the stock arms will adjust pretty far. For wheel fitment, these cars are kind of a pain to get right because the front track width is narrower than the rear. So you can run a wider wheel up front (I ran a 17x9 +40 easily) but you are not fitting that same size wheel in the rear without problems. If you want a bolt-on solution that requires no additional work, 18x8 +45 is where I would go.

For offset, the smaller the number the more it pokes out of the fender. +30 will stick out further than +40.
These are what I’m looking at, I prefer the esr but as far as I know that’s that closest spec they make. The Konig wheels are the same style and are a better spec I think
Wheel Automotive tire Alloy wheel Locking hubs Rim

Wheel Automotive tire Light Tire Alloy wheel
 
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