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I just signed papers on my 18’ sport 6speed with 56000 km. Near Stratford Ontario. Any mods you guys would recommend? Anything that’s a must do mod? Thanks in advance!
Thanks! Any noticeable difference? Also any companies that sell nice front lips? And sideskirts? I’m not keen on ordering Amazon ones that might fitI have the Takeda Momentum CAI, with the GFB BOV T9211. Love this combo setup, one of my best mods I have ever done to any of my cars.
Interesting, as far as the bov besides the bov itself is there any supporting mods?The sound is awsome from the BOV, same on the intake. You can hear the spool of the turbo as the Takeda has a removable side piece to hear it.
I’ve been on uniqperformance.ca and found a couple pieces. I’ve got a used set of eibach lowering springs I found on marketplace for a good price I’m going to throw on until I get coils. I read somewhere the ecu is limited to about 15 ish hp over stock? How accurate is that?There's some good aero stuff on Tuscanicustoms.com
Whatever you go with, make sure it's attached properly with nuts and bolts.
Yeah I bought it from a dealer but I’ll definitely be doing new fluids. Is the bov solenoid worth it too? Snow tires are a must as I’ll be working in New York City all winter into the spring and driving back and forth to Ontario once a monthPierburg wastegate solenoid. If you got it used, you should change the fluids and if you're in Ontario, you might want to look into snow tires. Check your air and cabin filters also
Any catch can in specific? I can’t imagine they’re much different across the board but I know they range in priceA catch can is highly recommended since these are direct injection.
Is a scorcher a way to deal with that or is sending the ecu away the only way?The stock ECU will limit power around 190whp, yes. Most bolt-ons won't do much without a tune.
I’ve read 18x8.5 +40 is pretty much flush but will ten mil less push it closer to the strut?Thanks for the info! One final question. Bc coils and the ysr camber arms can I make 18x8.5 +30 work? Offset has always confused me lol. I come from the truck world where offset doesn’t mean much beyond how far my 12 wides stuck past the fenders lol
These are what I’m looking at, I prefer the esr but as far as I know that’s that closest spec they make. The Konig wheels are the same style and are a better spec I thinkYou don't need camber arms in the rear unless you want the stiffer bushings, the stock arms will adjust pretty far. For wheel fitment, these cars are kind of a pain to get right because the front track width is narrower than the rear. So you can run a wider wheel up front (I ran a 17x9 +40 easily) but you are not fitting that same size wheel in the rear without problems. If you want a bolt-on solution that requires no additional work, 18x8 +45 is where I would go.
For offset, the smaller the number the more it pokes out of the fender. +30 will stick out further than +40.
Ah cool! I’m actually at the dealership right now lol waiting for it to be detailedCongrats !! I grabbed an 18 ES myself with 97k on it! Coming from the Honda scene, these things are a blast to drive. If you haven’t yet, throw this thing onto a corner and watch yourself be surprised haha. I’ve pushed it hard and it’s still begging for more. KW area myself, we’re pretty close !
Yeah I think I found the wheels I’m going to go with. 18x8.5 +45 konig ampliforms. Possibly 17s I haven’t decided yet.Reverse stagger on a FWD car improves rotation. Paired with a large rear sway bar and understeer is pretty much non existent. Sticky tires (200 treadwear or lower) recommended to reduce snap oversteer. I ran ~2.5 degrees of camber in the front and rear. 1/16" toe out in the front, zero toe in the rear. Your setup will require quite a bit of camber in the rear that may cause excessive wear on the inside edge.