Elantra Sport Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, just picked up a 2018 Sport with just 18,000 miles on it CPO from the Hyundai dealer. It's black with premium package - automatic. It's in great shape and in fact I traded in my 2019 Veloster Turbo on it as I needed more room, but wanted the same equipment and engine. The Veloster was a blast to drive, so when I sought out a replacement I knew I wanted this car. Anyway, I've had the car a week and have noticed an issue that I didn't have with my Veloster. I've noticed that under heavy acceleration like passing someone on the highway that the car seems to "surge" back and forth a bit. It doesn't change the RPM's it just feels like it just goes in and out of power a little bit. It doesn't feel normal. It also doesn't seem as quick as the Veloster was even though it's the same engine - yes Elantra weighs more, but just curious. I don't feel like I get that kick-down power or shift-down like when you need to pass someone. I've read online that spark plugs could be the issue with the gap not at .028 or even premium fuel - again both issues I never had with the Veloster. Anyway, I'm going to take it to the dealer soon, but wanted to double check here as well.
IMG_5952.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,413 Posts
Same-ish engine. The version put in the 2019+ Veloster actually has higher compression and an electronic wastegate on the turbo among other minor changes. That surging you are feeling is likely the stock boost control solenoid, which has been known to fail quite easily on these cars. Most people replace them with the Pierburg unit that you can find HERE. I think Hyundai knew they had problems with these solenoids so that's why the newer version of the engine eliminated them and went to the electronic wastegate.

If it is warm where you live, the ECU is likely to pull more timing if you are running regular fuel so that can contribute as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info. If I take this into the dealer (assuming I don't change out the solenoid myself) would they be able to locate this issue as their is no CEL on at all. I live in Indiana, so it's warm half of the year, but I've only had the car a week so far. I was going to check the plug gap as mentioned above, but maybe I'll just take it to the dealer after all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,413 Posts
Thanks for the info. If I take this into the dealer (assuming I don't change out the solenoid myself) would they be able to locate this issue as their is no CEL on at all. I live in Indiana, so it's warm half of the year, but I've only had the car a week so far. I was going to check the plug gap as mentioned above, but maybe I'll just take it to the dealer after all.
You can try but they will likely tell you that nothing is wrong. Either way they will probably replace it with another stock unit that also has a good chance of failing. Stock plug gap is OK around .032.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Same-ish engine. The version put in the 2019+ Veloster actually has higher compression and an electronic wastegate on the turbo among other minor changes. That surging you are feeling is likely the stock boost control solenoid, which has been known to fail quite easily on these cars. Most people replace them with the Pierburg unit that you can find HERE. I think Hyundai knew they had problems with these solenoids so that's why the newer version of the engine eliminated them and went to the electronic wastegate.

If it is warm where you live, the ECU is likely to pull more timing if you are running regular fuel so that can contribute as well.
Is this something more worth doing than the MAC BOV Solenoid? I have one, I had it on for a while. I also had a GReddy BOV that would NOT act right so I took both out. Thinking about putting the MAC Solenoid back on though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,413 Posts
Is this something more worth doing than the MAC BOV Solenoid? I have one, I had it on for a while. I also had a GReddy BOV that would NOT act right so I took both out. Thinking about putting the MAC Solenoid back on though.
Replacing the BOV solenoid isn't really a necessity.
 

·
Registered
2018 Elantra Sport
Joined
·
5 Posts
Yep, I fully agree with R1600 Turbo. The surging is most likely the result of a broken EBCS (Electronic Boost Control Solenoid). Mine died at 12,000 miles. If you have a Bluetooth OBDII scanner, you can actually check this while driving (use Torque app or something similar). When you accelerate hard (best done in 5th or 6th gear), you will see the boost pressure bounce up and down.

EBCS replacement is not very difficult or expensive, but the location is not ideal. I removed my "skidplate" and worked partially from the top (under the hood) and partially from underneath the car. The hardest part is usually to get the vacuum hoses off without damage. If you damage the ends of the hoses, you can cut them a bit shorter. Obviously, this trick only works once or twice, then they become too short and will no longer fit. The hoses are cheap though, so I ordered new ones with my EBCS, just in case I mess them up :) These are the part numbers:

39410-2B100 EBCS (about $40)
28291-2B720 Turbo Charger Hose (about $12)
28288-2B710 Turbo Charger Hose (about $7)

I also agree with R1600 on the BOV solenoid. I replaced mine before I replaced the EBCS, just because it's much easier to get to, but there was nothing wrong with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
After driving the car this week and the temperature outside is a little cooler now - I haven't noticed the surge as much. I'm going to the dealer tomorrow for diagnosis first and then I'll decide what I want to replace after they see it. I'm hoping they'll just put a new one on there for now and I can do the Pierburg if I need to. Not looking forward to it though. Thank-you for the part numbers!!
 

·
Registered
2018 Elantra Sport
Joined
·
5 Posts
Be prepared for your dealer to "find nothing wrong", because it does not throw a check-engine light. But perhaps you have a good dealer/service manager and they'll replace it for you. The problem with the EBCS does indeed seem to be somewhat temperature-related. I remember driving my car to work in the mornings (cool outside) and not notice the surging as much. But when I drove it back home at the end of the day (hot outside) it was way worse. I suspect the heat is what actually kills these solenoids.

The best way to replicate the problem is on the Interstate. I have the manual transmission, and I would do a long pull at WOT (wide open throttle) in 5th or 6th gear, and you can literally feel the boost kick in and out. As I said earlier, you can also see it clearly on a boost gauge/Torque app. I would suggest you tell your tech to test with this method, and not just drive around the block at low speed.

I do not know any iPhone scanners, sorry, I'm Android. There should be plenty on Amazon/Ebay though?

Love your black ES by the way. I had a black car once and it's just so hard to keep clean and free from swirls marks. But it sure looks nice 🙂
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top