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Discussion Starter #161
What i got back from Racechip Germany is they test & tune the cars to the fuel that is available in Germany. Which is 95 (91) Even their Racechip GTS which gives you another map & an extra 8hp & 20nm over the Racechip RS is done using 95 (91) on Std plugs.
That’s my favorite thing about the Race Chip option. No need for new plugs or catch cans, just the highest octane fuel you can afford.

But I have been running 95 (91) since I got my car in May 2018 Price here is around $1.50lt. Which works out close to $5.62/gallon. So close to the US$4/gallon you have.
Going up to the 98 (95) fuel is normally around $1.75lt. Which brings it up to US$5/gallon
****! I’ll STFU forever about gas prices.
 

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That’s my favorite thing about the Race Chip option. No need for new plugs or catch cans, just the highest octane fuel you can afford.
Well if I were you I would knock on wood and cross your fingers. Boost chip or tune you are doing the same thing and just because some shop that I've never heard of before tells you that you don't need those things doesn't make it right. At some point things like this will come full circle and people wonder why they went the cheap route with a ticking time bomb. Someone recently had a rod depart from their engine running a AFE Scorcher.


Good luck.
 

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Wasn't that the one where a boost/vac line to the non-stock solenoid popped off?
I'm a firm believer that having the Scorcher installed had an effect on the ECU not being able to release the excess boost before failure like it should have.
 

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I'm a firm believer that having the Scorcher installed had an effect on the ECU not being able to release the excess boost before failure like it should have.
I see your point and don't disagree with you, but it really seemed like the most direct cause was the lack of/a poorly installed hose clamp, I can't remember which.

But yes indeed, play with fire and you might get burned, the boost chips do something that's for sure but the risk you take on isn't insignificant.
 

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I´m going to go ahead and resurrect this thread. Would be nice to get some feedback from all of you who actually put this in you car after some real miles have been driven.
Still happy? Still have it in? Any issues? Anything made you change your initial comments? (Like, Yeah I did end up getting colder plugs etc?)

Seems like some of you would have driven with this for over 6 months now?
 

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Discussion Starter #167
I´m going to go ahead and resurrect this thread. Would be nice to get some feedback from all of you who actually put this in you car after some real miles have been driven.
Still happy? Still have it in? Any issues? Anything made you change your initial comments? (Like, Yeah I did end up getting colder plugs etc?)

Seems like some of you would have driven with this for over 6 months now?
Still happy, still have it. I did not end up using the colder plugs I bought. I leave it on setting 4 for driving around on 91 octane. I only use setting 6 when I've added octane booster which doesn't happen very often, so I probably could have gotten away with just the S model instead of the RS that I purchased. I've taken my car in for repair at a Hyundai dealership twice since installation and I really appreciate the ease of removal and re-installation.
 

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Right on man! I really appreciate the feedback. Is the fact that you don´t have the colder plugs the main reason you leave it at 4 or is that mainly because of octane level?
 

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Discussion Starter #169
Right on man! I really appreciate the feedback. Is the fact that you don´t have the colder plugs the main reason you leave it at 4 or is that mainly because of octane level?
Octane level. I asked RaceChip about colder plugs since they recommended it with their 2.0 and 3.3 Hyundai engine chips and they said it wasn't necessary for the 1.6.
 

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Still running with mine. Still very happy with it & have had no problems at all with it..The only thing I have noticed is how clever (if you see it that way) the Hyundai ECU is.
I have been driving around on map 6 all the time. But I was feeling like it didn't have the power it should've had. So I unplugged the Racechip module & plugged in the small module you get with it.
Drove to work & back which is almost a 100 klm round trip. Plugged the Racechip module back in. Now it feels like all the power has returned back again..
So it's seems like the Hyundai ECU id somehow detecting the extra power & changing it's perimeters to put it back at or near stock power levels.
So since I have the bluetooth version. I can just deactivate the Racechip to pretty much reset the stock ECU.

With the changing of the spark plugs.. The reason they have to be changed in the Stinger is that they are 1 step hotter than the STD plugs in our cars.
So with changing the plugs in the Stinger to colder plugs, then they are going to be the same heat range as our stock plugs.
The Hyundai/Kia 1.6lt GDi/T already stock comes with spark plugs that are the coldest that most spark plug manufactures make.
Hence why the only plugs that are 1 step colder are the HKS plugs & also why they are so much more expensive.

But I have changed over to the HKS M45XL's Got them for a good price & thought I would give them a try.. There is no difference if the way it drives with the plugs.

So I'm still 100% happy with the Racechip RS.
 

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Octane level. I asked RaceChip about colder plugs since they recommended it with their 2.0 and 3.3 Hyundai engine chips and they said it wasn't necessary for the 1.6.
Tune or not the outcome is roughly the same, you're adding power. Colder plugs are needed with a tune, they are needed here.
So it's seems like the Hyundai ECU id somehow detecting the extra power & changing it's perimeters to put it back at or near stock power levels.
The stock ECU has limiters out the wazoo. Hence why adding every bolt-on performance part without a tune will get you basically nowhere. Stock ECU sees that and pulls back the timing to keep everything in check. Most of these piggybacks just fool the ECU into thinking it's seeing the correct numbers so that it doesn't do that.
 

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Tune or not the outcome is roughly the same, you're adding power. Colder plugs are needed with a tune, they are needed here.

The stock ECU has limiters out the wazoo. Hence why adding every bolt-on performance part without a tune will get you basically nowhere. Stock ECU sees that and pulls back the timing to keep everything in check. Most of these piggybacks just fool the ECU into thinking it's seeing the correct numbers so that it doesn't do that.
I didn't see it like that.. I knew about the Stock ECU pulling back power if you just do bolt on's
But my car felt kinda flat. Not as punchy, hence why I unplugged the Racechip & drove it for a day.
After I plugged it back in, the extra power returned.. So not sure if it's the stock ECU doing it or the Racechip.
Be interesting if others with the Racechip has also felt anything like that,,
 

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Hey guys, this is my first post on the forums so forgive me if I am not following the correct formalities. I recently purchased the RaceChip S for just shy of $AUD400 and thought I'd share my experience so far.

Just as a bit of background, in Australia, provisional license laws are quite strict. I am 18 and drive a '17 Elantra SR DCT. We also have some lenient laws on modifications so we can chip tune and ECU tune our cars so long as the power increase is no more than 20%. We also have to stay within the 130w/kg power to weight ratio, so 180kw is the absolute maximum that my ES can be modified to produce. With the RaceChip installed, my car would be estimated to be at around 176kw with a power to weight ratio of 124w/kg.

My car is completely stock, has done less than 17,000kms and I decided to get the RaceChip S. Though I could've afforded to get the RS or GTS, I just couldn't justify the price jump relative to the performance gain.

So I have had the chip on for about 5 days now. Installation was a breeze, though I was with my mate who helped. The 1hr we actually spent installing the chip was predominantly spent on trying to find a suitable mounting point, though we could've followed the instruction book, but it wouldn't make uninstalling or adjusting of the maps very easy. We ended up mounting it against the battery.

Now, onto the performance. I have the map set to 5, as I personally don't see why you should dial back performance when your intention was to gain performance in the first place. I also keep the car in normal mode as I hate what sport mode does to the steering. Oh my days does this thing make a difference. I noticed that 1st and 2nd were pretty much the same, though in these gears, the car moves with some urgency. 3rd and 4th is where the difference is seen. The car just pulls so much harder it is absolutely ridiculous. If you want to get some decent performance gains with little modifications and monetary investment, a chip tune seems like a no-brainer! Though a dyno-chart would have been great, you will definitely notice a gain in performance. I'd say the S chip is your best value over the RS and GTS, which do not have much more performance or additional features other than extra maps and bluetooth connectivity.
 

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Hey guys, this is my first post on the forums so forgive me if I am not following the correct formalities. I recently purchased the RaceChip S for just shy of $AUD400 and thought I'd share my experience so far.

Just as a bit of background, in Australia, provisional license laws are quite strict. I am 18 and drive a '17 Elantra SR DCT. We also have some lenient laws on modifications so we can chip tune and ECU tune our cars so long as the power increase is no more than 20%. We also have to stay within the 130w/kg power to weight ratio, so 180kw is the absolute maximum that my ES can be modified to produce. With the RaceChip installed, my car would be estimated to be at around 176kw with a power to weight ratio of 124w/kg.

My car is completely stock, has done less than 17,000kms and I decided to get the RaceChip S. Though I could've afforded to get the RS or GTS, I just couldn't justify the price jump relative to the performance gain.

So I have had the chip on for about 5 days now. Installation was a breeze, though I was with my mate who helped. The 1hr we actually spent installing the chip was predominantly spent on trying to find a suitable mounting point, though we could've followed the instruction book, but it wouldn't make uninstalling or adjusting of the maps very easy. We ended up mounting it against the battery.

Now, onto the performance. I have the map set to 5, as I personally don't see why you should dial back performance when your intention was to gain performance in the first place. I also keep the car in normal mode as I hate what sport mode does to the steering. Oh my days does this thing make a difference. I noticed that 1st and 2nd were pretty much the same, though in these gears, the car moves with some urgency. 3rd and 4th is where the difference is seen. The car just pulls so much harder it is absolutely ridiculous. If you want to get some decent performance gains with little modifications and monetary investment, a chip tune seems like a no-brainer! Though a dyno-chart would have been great, you will definitely notice a gain in performance. I'd say the S chip is your best value over the RS and GTS, which do not have much more performance or additional features other than extra maps and bluetooth connectivity.
Any updates on the racechip I noticed it's been about a month so just curious on your thoughts / reviews, considering the racechip my self!
 

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Any updates on the racechip I noticed it's been about a month so just curious on your thoughts / reviews, considering the racechip my self!
Hey mate, the RaceChip is still going strong! I didn't even realize that I have had it installed for only a month, it feels like its been on it forever! The performance I experienced from day 1 is still noticeable on it, though I have definitely adjusted to it. Somebody mentioned something about how their RaceChip was not performing because of the ES adaptable ECU which learns your driving style and what not. I have personally not experienced it at all from day 1, so it may've been an outlier or placebo effect. If you do not care about features such as Bluetooth connectivity and are really struggling to step up to the RS or GTS, seriously just get the S. The price to performance ratio is worlds apart from the premium products. Just mount the chip to the battery and you will be able to adjust on the fly. The biggest differences as I noted previously is that you will spin pretty much through 1st and 2nd but 3rd and 4th gear is where you notice the biggest difference. The car doesn't fall flat on its face and its a lot more fun to whined out. I don't intend to modify my ES any further, with the exception of possibly a short ram intake (SXTH Element) and probably an axleback exhaust (SXTH Element) to get better airflow and less restriction. If you daily your car and aren't looking to heavily modify it, RaceChip is a great option. The ECU will NOT adapt so you will experience the performance for the long run and the car is more than capable of handling it. Just keep on top of your maintenance checks! What some people forget is that the chip has been engineered and tested on a stock ES extensively to iron out any issues, so you can buy with confidence. Another thing, I believe on the S or possibly just on the premium chips, the fine print says to run premium fuel if you intend to use the highest setting. I accidentally put in 91 octane (I don't know the US equivalent) instead of 98 octane (95 US equivalent) and it still ran like it did on 98 so no need to look into that too much. Hope this information helps bud!
 

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Hey mate, the RaceChip is still going strong! I didn't even realize that I have had it installed for only a month, it feels like its been on it forever! The performance I experienced from day 1 is still noticeable on it, though I have definitely adjusted to it. Somebody mentioned something about how their RaceChip was not performing because of the ES adaptable ECU which learns your driving style and what not. I have personally not experienced it at all from day 1, so it may've been an outlier or placebo effect. If you do not care about features such as Bluetooth connectivity and are really struggling to step up to the RS or GTS, seriously just get the S. The price to performance ratio is worlds apart from the premium products. Just mount the chip to the battery and you will be able to adjust on the fly. The biggest differences as I noted previously is that you will spin pretty much through 1st and 2nd but 3rd and 4th gear is where you notice the biggest difference. The car doesn't fall flat on its face and its a lot more fun to whined out. I don't intend to modify my ES any further, with the exception of possibly a short ram intake (SXTH Element) and probably an axleback exhaust (SXTH Element) to get better airflow and less restriction. If you daily your car and aren't looking to heavily modify it, RaceChip is a great option. The ECU will NOT adapt so you will experience the performance for the long run and the car is more than capable of handling it. Just keep on top of your maintenance checks! What some people forget is that the chip has been engineered and tested on a stock ES extensively to iron out any issues, so you can buy with confidence. Another thing, I believe on the S or possibly just on the premium chips, the fine print says to run premium fuel if you intend to use the highest setting. I accidentally put in 91 octane (I don't know the US equivalent) instead of 98 octane (95 US equivalent) and it still ran like it did on 98 so no need to look into that too much. Hope this information helps bud!
It's not the stock ECU adapting but it having limiters for everything. Most of these piggyback "chips" just intercept signals from sensors to fool the ECU into thinking everything is OK so it doesn't apply those limiters. IMO not the best way to go about things but people like cheap speed. :) The only piggybacks I can recommend would be the Lap3 Pro Tuner or the JB4. And of course a full tune is always superior.
 

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It's not the stock ECU adapting but it having limiters for everything. Most of these piggyback "chips" just intercept signals from sensors to fool the ECU into thinking everything is OK so it doesn't apply those limiters. IMO not the best way to go about things but people like cheap speed. :) The only piggybacks I can recommend would be the Lap3 Pro Tuner or the JB4. And of course a full tune is always superior.
Fair enough tho! I definitely am considering getting the Lap3. In Australia, it's so hard to find aftermarket parts for the ES and most parts are concentrated in North America. From an accessibility perspective, the RaceChip is a tempting proposition in contrast to the Lap3 because it is cheaper and installation is straight forward. I personally think it's good for anyone who is starting out but as you say, a more comprehensive piggyback or tune is the far superior option. The RaceChip in my circumstances still allows me to legally drive my ESR while I am subject to provisional license restrictions, not that all provisional license holders especially in my state follow these laws.
 

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Hey mate, the RaceChip is still going strong! I didn't even realize that I have had it installed for only a month, it feels like its been on it forever! The performance I experienced from day 1 is still noticeable on it, though I have definitely adjusted to it. Somebody mentioned something about how their RaceChip was not performing because of the ES adaptable ECU which learns your driving style and what not. I have personally not experienced it at all from day 1, so it may've been an outlier or placebo effect. If you do not care about features such as Bluetooth connectivity and are really struggling to step up to the RS or GTS, seriously just get the S. The price to performance ratio is worlds apart from the premium products. Just mount the chip to the battery and you will be able to adjust on the fly. The biggest differences as I noted previously is that you will spin pretty much through 1st and 2nd but 3rd and 4th gear is where you notice the biggest difference. The car doesn't fall flat on its face and its a lot more fun to whined out. I don't intend to modify my ES any further, with the exception of possibly a short ram intake (SXTH Element) and probably an axleback exhaust (SXTH Element) to get better airflow and less restriction. If you daily your car and aren't looking to heavily modify it, RaceChip is a great option. The ECU will NOT adapt so you will experience the performance for the long run and the car is more than capable of handling it. Just keep on top of your maintenance checks! What some people forget is that the chip has been engineered and tested on a stock ES extensively to iron out any issues, so you can buy with confidence. Another thing, I believe on the S or possibly just on the premium chips, the fine print says to run premium fuel if you intend to use the highest setting. I accidentally put in 91 octane (I don't know the US equivalent) instead of 98 octane (95 US equivalent) and it still ran like it did on 98 so no need to look into that too much. Hope this information helps bud!
thanks a bunch man! im in the same boat as you really the price of a lap 3 ( 1500 cad ) or racechip (500-600 cad) and i live in a province with zero tuners/dynos so a tune gets very expensive haha the only things is i didnt realise that the burger motor sports makes a jb4 for our cars till the other night and there a lil more then the race chip but a lil cheaper then the lap 3 so i have to weigh out my options again, thanks for the info though!! cheers
 

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Cheap is not always great, especially when looking at something that is in control of your engine.
 
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