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Now with winters approaching, is anyone planning to go for the rust proofing. Is it even required for our new vehicle. I am looking for suggestions here.
 

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I'm a firm believer in yearly rustproofing(Krown ,Rustcheck,Fluidfilm) here on the salty East coast.
It's proven itself on my past vehicles and I'll likewise have my ES sprayed before December.
 

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ive always been suspicous of whether or not "rust proofing" really prevented the formation of rust
I feel the same now. After rustproofing our two previous cars their entire life I found they ultimately rusted out like anything else plus the mess is annoying. We opted to rubber spray the bottom and get the electronic unit not because I think it works, more because the warranty covers rust. We now just wash our cars much more frequently. Guess we'll see in 10 yrs.
 

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It only keeps the bottom of the car from rusting. It does absolutely nothing for any of the body panels. That said, it can keep your frame and control arms and such from rusting out. Or at least prolong their lifespan.
 

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my 10 year old civic I had rust proofing wax done at the dealer. they said its one time thing and guess what, it has rust everywhere under the car, the most obvious rusted place can see is the back wheel arm bar from left to right. for my new car I got the electric pulse protection, we'll see how it does.
 

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It only keeps the bottom of the car from rusting. It does absolutely nothing for any of the body panels. That said, it can keep your frame and control arms and such from rusting out. Or at least prolong their lifespan.
We used to have the oil spray done and found that panels would rust in the usual spots due to sound deadening materials. The constant fluctuations in temperature caused the layer between the steel panels to get wet and rust inside out. I like the rubber products but you shouldn't add oil to it since it will ruin the rubber, or at least from what I can see. One thing I found is the car that was garaged in the winter rusted the worst. I would suggest not parking indoors in the winter to avoid the fluctuations in temperature. My opinion though based on my personal experience, take it with a grain of salt.
 

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Rust Proofing: There is no such thing
Electronic Rust Proofing: 95% BUNK. It works in theory and in marine applications but not on cars. Not on my car (Yes, it rusted with the unit working), my uncles car, my friends car. They typically do not work.
Spraying the surface with protection: Not needed in temperature stable, low humidity environments but...

My city uses salt on winter roads so I get my car oil sprayed. There are holes drilled into the car and a long wand inserted to get the oil into all the nooks and crannies. I do it in the summer on the hottest day possible so the oil flows into the tightly fitted seams by capillary action.
Water WILL get inside the panels and inside those seams (how many cars have rust starting where the quarter panel meets the lower trim or other panel, usually low and around the wheel well. I'm looking at YOU MAZDA!). There is not a lot air flow and little opportunity for these areas to dry out so it is best to fill those gaps with oil as soon as possible.
The oil application also wears out so I always get it reapplied in spring to help neutralize (esp if it contains sodium nitrate) the salty deposits that have accumulated over the winter. I will then get it sprayed again late summer on a super hot day.
Immediately after your oil spray, which also includes under body coating, go for a drive on a dry country dirt/gravel road. The dust will turn the oil into more of a paste and help it stick/stay better.
I'll spend between $70-$150 per year on oil spraying (shout out to Vern Houghton Rust Control in Kitchener).

I've seen waxy types used to good effect. They last MUCH longer but they do not penetrate the seams through capillary action like oil on a hot day.
 

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100% with kdetlor.....'Rustproofing' is a bit of a misnomer, but in salty climates with regular temperature swings above and below the freeze point, it certainly retards metal corrosion when applied proactively.
I prefer the creeping oil spray in all cracks and crevices and a heavier, waxy film in wheel wells and other heavy wear locations.
And Yes, the electronic module installations are snake oil, unless your daily driver is a rock truck working in a salt mine. You'd have more success installing sacrificial anodes to the car body.
 

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I never have rust proofed a car and everyone of them were fine after 7-8 years. Not sure with newer vehicles given the change in the paint. I am considering it with my Elantra given the issues I am already experiencing with the paint.
 

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Dont rust proof the paint. Rustproof under the car. Add a ceramic coat to the cars paint to protect it. I've used duragloss enviroshield and carpro products and they work great.
 

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Nothing will protect the paint better than PPF. If paint issues bug you that much, the best investment you can make is a full front clear bra or PPF the whole car.
 
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