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Discussion Starter #1
So my 17 es 6spd manual is sputtering after 4k rpm. It seems to be holding power back and jerking me in the car when I floor it after this point. Is this normal for the turbo elantra? I'm at dealer and they say it may be normal for hyundai turbos. They also said that since I have an aftermarket intake and the blow off valve is not connected to the intake that this could be the issue but its only been doing this for a couple months now. I have a 6 inch rubber pipe over the blow off valve and it is venting to atmosphere and have a chair stopper with a clamp around the spot where the hole would be where the blow off valve would connect to the intake. I have been running the car like this for about 6 months or longer now and it just started doing it a short while ago. It mainly jerks me and the rpm jumps around at around 4k when I am in 4th gear and flooring it above 70mph. Please help. The dealer is fucking stupid and has no idea what they are talking about and couldn't give me any advice.

Has anyone else run into this issue at about 70+mph on highway in a manual trans flooring it and the car seems to sputter and jerk you a bit in the car?

Please help!!!
 

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My ES is completely stock internally and I don't have that issue. Has the dealer done a pressure test?
 

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I floor it from 4th gear and 5th gear above 4k rpm and sometimes the rpm gauge bounces and the car seems like it is holding back power like it doesn't want to go harder. The Dealer said to reinstall the factory intake system and bring it back in and then they would test it, but they said since the k&n cold air intake is not connected directly to the blow off valve that this could potentially be the issue but they have no idea. I took the mechanic for a drive and he stated it seemed like a normal hyundai turbo function.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just put the pipe back on to connect the blow off and the intake and now when I floor it multiple times down the highway it seems to really cut off and cut back on me.
 

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I floor it from 4th gear and 5th gear above 4k rpm and sometimes the rpm gauge bounces and the car seems like it is holding back power like it doesn't want to go harder. The Dealer said to reinstall the factory intake system and bring it back in and then they would test it, but they said since the k&n cold air intake is not connected directly to the blow off valve that this could potentially be the issue but they have no idea. I took the mechanic for a drive and he stated it seemed like a normal hyundai turbo function.
The car has a map sensor, venting to atmosphere will not harm it.

My guess is that the stock boost control solenoid is acting up. Very common that they fail in high temps. I would start there.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This tube where I have a red arrow pointing to has a crack in it from where the clamp was. I think the stupid mechanic at the dealer moved the clamp and now theres a crack in that tube. Not sure what it goes to
 

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Discussion Starter #9
They put the clamp where I have the arrow showing almost in the middle of the tube and it created a small crack. The dealer told me to put back to stock and bring it in. I think the mechanic at the dealer was new and fucking stupid and had no idea what he was talking about.
 

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This tube where I have a red arrow pointing to has a crack in it from where the clamp was. I think the stupid mechanic at the dealer moved the clamp and now theres a crack in that tube. Not sure what it goes to
It is a part of the vehicle's evaporative emissions system, which is designed to capture and recirculate evaporative emission from the fuel back into the engine bay. It is the job of the EVAP vent solenoid to allow air into the charcoal canister so that the EVAP system can pressurize and function properly.
 

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Having a crack in the EVAP line is definitely problematic and should be addressed. When you say the RPMs "bounce", what do you mean? How far does it "bounce" and how frequently? Posting a video clip of it might help.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The rpm are jumping 250 to 500rpm constantly as the turbo gets hot. It only seems to do it as I continue to get on the car over and over and over for a period of time. Then the power starts to cut off a little and the rpm gauge jumps and the car jerks me back n forth in the seat a bit. Im taking back to dealer to have him look at it. I am really going to run through it with him this time.
 

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This is what happens when you try fiddling with your engine. Every time people have issues with engine performance it’s because they try to increase performance with the aftermarket parts that are not designed to work with this application. When are people going to learn ?
If you want a maximum performance machine buy a Porsche or a Ferrari or some other high-performance machine that is designed to work with these aftermarket parts but, a Hyundai? You’ve got to be kidding me.
 

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This is what happens when you try fiddling with your engine. Every time people have issues with engine performance it’s because they try to increase performance with the aftermarket parts that are not designed to work with this application. When are people going to learn ?
If you want a maximum performance machine buy a Porsche or a Ferrari or some other high-performance machine that is designed to work with these aftermarket parts but, a Hyundai? You’ve got to be kidding me.
What the **** are you talking about lol, yeah he added performance and due to that he's getting this issue but it's a $150 upgrade needed to hold his boost.

LAP3 just hit a 400WHP Elantra sport with ROOM to upgrade it.

Veloster N's are getting faster and faster with the aftermarket parts. KIA coming out with V6TT's with LAP3 are pushing 500-600 AWHP. For 1/4 of the price of those performance cars. If you do it right you should be fine. Idk why having a Hyundai is an issue when they're by far the highest gained reputation car manufacturer in the last 5 years.

At this rate give it 10 years and you'll be switching your words from "a Hyundai are you kidding me?" To "why don't you get a performance car like a Hyundai" (okay maybe not Lambo or Ferrari levels)
 

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This is what happens when you try fiddling with your engine. Every time people have issues with engine performance it’s because they try to increase performance with the aftermarket parts that are not designed to work with this application. When are people going to learn ?
If you want a maximum performance machine buy a Porsche or a Ferrari or some other high-performance machine that is designed to work with these aftermarket parts but, a Hyundai? You’ve got to be kidding me.
I'm not going to tolerate trolling of this sort on this forum. No one here is looking for "maximum performance". I'm not sure if you're aware, but there is a ton of middle ground between "stock" and "maximum performance". You just put down most of the people who post here with your "You've got to be kidding me" line. If you don't want to mod your car, fine, but you're not going to bash people here who do. This isn't an invitation to argue - this is the end of this discussion.
 

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This is what happens when you try fiddling with your engine. Every time people have issues with engine performance it’s because they try to increase performance with the aftermarket parts that are not designed to work with this application. When are people going to learn ?
If you want a maximum performance machine buy a Porsche or a Ferrari or some other high-performance machine that is designed to work with these aftermarket parts but, a Hyundai? You’ve got to be kidding me.
My guess is that it's the stock EBCS solenoid that is crapping out on him. It can do that with or without modifications on the car because it's a crap piece. Upgrading it can benefit you modded or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Im taking back to dealer on Monday to run it with them again. As mentioned I only have a K&N cold air intake on the car and the car when gets hot the car starts to sputter and the power cuts out and jerks me in the car. I am going to run it hard multiple times to get this issue to pop up for the mechanic so he can figure out what the **** is going on. I can't imagine the Cold air intake has anything to do with the car. It's probably as you guys have mentioned something to do with the turbo controller.
 

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I had a similar issue, check your spark plugs are all ok. Check the ceramic insulator and gaps.
 

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Im taking back to dealer on Monday to run it with them again. As mentioned I only have a K&N cold air intake on the car and the car when gets hot the car starts to sputter and the power cuts out and jerks me in the car. I am going to run it hard multiple times to get this issue to pop up for the mechanic so he can figure out what the **** is going on. I can't imagine the Cold air intake has anything to do with the car. It's probably as you guys have mentioned something to do with the turbo controller.
When the EBCS gets hot they start to leak, I've felt it on my car when driving for a while, the post are right replace your EBCS, R1600turbo is right!
 
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