Elantra Sport Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A simple review, nothing fancy just a 15 mile long rural road, with various surfaces, imperfections, and corners, at speed ranging from 65-90MPH. I drive on this road almost daily, becoming very familiar with the road, and how the ES responds to it. For the test, I ran the road forward and back.

I expected, to have to really dive into a corner hard, really push the car for the roll bar to become noticeable. However, it made its self known, rather quickly.
From the get-go, the road starts straight with a few minor rises, and out of level patches, the car always felt good and confident, but I caught by surprise that it felt a bit more planted, some of the 'floating' feeling was reduced (this adds to a what seems like bit more harsher ride, I don't recall feeling bumps as much). This was minor, and could be argued to some sort of placebo effect.

What wasn't a placebo was the much reduced understeer, my first two corners I defaulted to my typical amount of steering input, to which right away it dove in tighter, and quicker, causing me to have to back off steering input a bit. A lesser amount of steering input, and the car being more eager to hold the corner, remained throughout the drive. Much reduced understeer, to the point, it was often feeling neutral, and faster responding to steering input.
Roll too was reduced-more so than expected-making the car lean less, run the contour of the road and allowing a cleaner exist ( using the seat bolster a bit more too). This more confident feeling, allowed me to take corner a bit faster than I normally would have. Not to say the car couldn't do it stock, as I know it can, but I've left some safety margin in the drive(it's not a race track), and where say normally 70 was my comfort zone, I found 80+ to maintain that feeling.

While, two corners, I got a slight feeling there some was minor oversteer, it was brief, I'll have to explore that a bit more. Mostly I'll sum up the car as rather neutral. Sure, ultimately it will understeer, the roll bar, doesn't turn the ES into a RWD drifter, it does however greatly reduce the understeer, to the point in my drive I couldn't really detect any.

Great buy.

Also the shiftier bushings, are amazing. Add those to your cart next purchase.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
140 Posts
Nice impressions and feedback.

1: Off camber cornering feel? One of my regular fun drives has quite a few off camber to flat corners, the car can feel a bit nervous and load up on the outside front(obviously) in these sections.

2: On center feel? The car has a bit of a 'slow' on center initial turn in, it grips and turns very well after a bit of 'slackness' one could say.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
The road I use, is going to be flat or on camber, I know of no area with an off camber corner to test on. Perhaps one area comes to mind, but there is no way to drive aggressively on it.

I can't offer too much in regards to on center feel changing. I didn't really make a mental note of it when stock, and there several layers within 'on center feel' that I have no means to measure comparatively. Also being electric steering, I think it makes even harder to notice variances. I can note that returnability seems slightly improved, and with that response too, that being the one notable area even in casual driving I seem to perhaps notice.

I can't offer too much in depth analyzes in the more technical aspects. I would need some back to back driving, with repeatable speeds and time, something I can't get when I have to be careful with other cars, deers, and just staying on the safe side- since it is a public road lined with trees.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
214 Posts
i like mine too but the install was kind of a pain in the ass because i tightened the bolts on the endlinks that attach to the bar while it was in so the spring was so close i should have just taken the while thing out

but anyways the bar does make fast cornering feel better. was a little pricy but i am overall satisfied with it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,226 Posts
I guess I'll add to this instead of posting another thread.

I also really love the way it handles going in to corners now, and there is no perceptible harshness to the ride as a daily driver.

I'm going to suggest going about installing the sway bar in a different manner than what SXTH suggests.

First, disconnect the endlinks from the OEM sway bar, then undo the sway bar brackets and pull the bar out. Do not take the endlinks all the way out. Instead, loosen the nut on the bottom bolt where it passes through the control arm just enough so that the end links can flop over. Let them fall over towards the center of the car, with the endlink bolt facing up. Get the new sway bar in to position and thread one of the endlinks through it and put the nut on by just a couple threads, then do the same with the other side. Once you have the endlink nuts in place, then start putting the bushing brackets on. Once the brackets are on then tighten up the endlink nuts, top and bottom.

This method is exponentially easier than trying to attach the endlinks outside of the car and then trying to get them to line up inside the control arms. I couldn't make that happen no matter how hard I tried. It's also exponentially easier than putting the new sway bar brackets on and then trying to attach the endlinks. I tried all 3 ways and this was by far the easiest.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,852 Posts
I guess I'll add to this instead of posting another thread.

I also really love the way it handles going in to corners now, and there is no perceptible harshness to the ride as a daily driver.

I'm going to suggest going about installing the sway bar in a different manner than what SXTH suggests.

First, disconnect the endlinks from the OEM sway bar, then undo the sway bar brackets and pull the bar out. Do not take the endlinks all the way out. Instead, loosen the nut on the bottom bolt where it passes through the control arm just enough so that the end links can flop over. Let them fall over towards the center of the car, with the endlink bolt facing up. Get the new sway bar in to position and thread one of the endlinks through it and put the nut on by just a couple threads, then do the same with the other side. Once you have the endlink nuts in place, then start putting the bush brackets on. Once the brackets are on then tighten up the endlink nuts, top and bottom.

This method is exponentially easier than trying to attach the endlinks outside of the car and then trying to get them to line up inside the control arms. I couldn't make that happen no matter how hard I tried. It's also exponentially easier than putting the new sway bar brackets on and then trying to attach the endlinks. I tried all 3 ways and this was by far the easiest.
Space issues with getting the nut off the endlinks with the springs in the way?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,852 Posts
I guess I'll add to this instead of posting another thread.

I also really love the way it handles going in to corners now, and there is no perceptible harshness to the ride as a daily driver.

I'm going to suggest going about installing the sway bar in a different manner than what SXTH suggests.

First, disconnect the endlinks from the OEM sway bar, then undo the sway bar brackets and pull the bar out. Do not take the endlinks all the way out. Instead, loosen the nut on the bottom bolt where it passes through the control arm just enough so that the end links can flop over. Let them fall over towards the center of the car, with the endlink bolt facing up. Get the new sway bar in to position and thread one of the endlinks through it and put the nut on by just a couple threads, then do the same with the other side. Once you have the endlink nuts in place, then start putting the bushing brackets on. Once the brackets are on then tighten up the endlink nuts, top and bottom.

This method is exponentially easier than trying to attach the endlinks outside of the car and then trying to get them to line up inside the control arms. I couldn't make that happen no matter how hard I tried. It's also exponentially easier than putting the new sway bar brackets on and then trying to attach the endlinks. I tried all 3 ways and this was by far the easiest.
This method did not work for me. The threaded part of the endlink just spun with the nut. Since it's right up against the spring, couldn't fit the allen wrench in there. Had to take the whole thing out with the endlinks attached. This also meant installing the endlinks out of the car and putting everything back in reverse just as the instructions read. No big deal. After a few runs up and down 3 flights of stairs to get tools from my apartment, it took me about 45 minutes to install.

First impressions: Feels normal on the street. Nothing stands out and the ride feels the same. But when I hit the corner I wanted to really test it in, holy crap. The car just rotates and glides around the corner. Understeer is practically gone. Can't wait to test this thing out with some stickier rubber.

Oh, and here is the place where I tested it. The only fun curve for miles. It rises from both ends and goes around the hill there. It's a pretty blind corner but if you need some corners in your life for 5 seconds, this works. :p

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
214 Posts
I guess I'll add to this instead of posting another thread.

I also really love the way it handles going in to corners now, and there is no perceptible harshness to the ride as a daily driver.

I'm going to suggest going about installing the sway bar in a different manner than what SXTH suggests.

First, disconnect the endlinks from the OEM sway bar, then undo the sway bar brackets and pull the bar out. Do not take the endlinks all the way out. Instead, loosen the nut on the bottom bolt where it passes through the control arm just enough so that the end links can flop over. Let them fall over towards the center of the car, with the endlink bolt facing up. Get the new sway bar in to position and thread one of the endlinks through it and put the nut on by just a couple threads, then do the same with the other side. Once you have the endlink nuts in place, then start putting the bushing brackets on. Once the brackets are on then tighten up the endlink nuts, top and bottom.

This method is exponentially easier than trying to attach the endlinks outside of the car and then trying to get them to line up inside the control arms. I couldn't make that happen no matter how hard I tried. It's also exponentially easier than putting the new sway bar brackets on and then trying to attach the endlinks. I tried all 3 ways and this was by far the easiest.
This method did not work for me. The threaded part of the endlink just spun with the nut. Since it's right up against the spring, couldn't fit the allen wrench in there. Had to take the whole thing out with the endlinks attached. This also meant installing the endlinks out of the car and putting everything back in reverse just as the instructions read. No big deal. After a few runs up and down 3 flights of stairs to get tools from my apartment, it took me about 45 minutes to install.

First impressions: Feels normal on the street. Nothing stands out and the ride feels the same. But when I hit the corner I wanted to really test it in, holy crap. The car just rotates and glides around the corner. Understeer is practically gone. Can't wait to test this thing out with some stickier rubber.

Oh, and here is the place where I tested it. The only fun curve for miles. It rises from both ends and goes around the hill there. It's a pretty blind corner but if you need some corners in your life for 5 seconds, this works.


nice open road are you in CA?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,852 Posts
Hit a couple bumps on the way out of work tonight and heard a clunk. Got home and had to tighten down the nuts where the endlink attaches to the bar. Guess I didn't get them tightened down all the way. Thankfully I could just put a wrench on them and tighten away without needing the allen wrench.

So just a heads up, might be a good idea to reach under there and do a quick check.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
I installed mine on Saturday, it only 10 minutes with a lift. I also have a clunking noise after driving 50 miles or so however, when I checked my bolts, they are tight. Not sure whats causing the noise. I'm going to try switching to the less aggressive slot and see if that makes a difference.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,226 Posts
Check the placement of the sway bar left to right. If you don't have it centered well the endlinks can absolutely hit the springs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
241 Posts
Upon further inspection, the lube I added completely dried up. Added more lube and it's all good. I've never had that stuff dry up on me like that.
Interesting. What climate are you in right now?

I haven't messed with my bar since it went in so long ago. No noise from me. Check your endlink nuts as well.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top