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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I wanted to share my advice after just completing the install. It is a PITA, mostly from not having the tools on hand that would have made it much easier. Most of this advice would work for any vendors downpipe. Aside from your standard assortment of sockets, extensions, wrenches and adapters; you should plan to have these on hand:

- Tap/Die set (8mm 1.25). This is for the studs on the turbo. If your studs don't back out, rethread the studs and nuts. Trust me, you'll appreciate being able to hand tighten them in prep for torquing. If they do back out, retap it. You'll be happy you did.

- Anti-Seize. Use it sparingly on the O2 sensors when you remount them.

- 12mm Crows Foot. SXTH provides one for their replacement studs. Mine didn't back out and the bolt head on their's isn't factory size. You'll need it to torque the stud nuts because there is no room for a socket with the V-Band flange they use. You only need this for one stud nut between the engine and the downpipe. The other two are reachable from below with a 12mm wrench. This will keep you occupied for an hour, minimum lol.

- PB blaster. Use it on the turbo studs and the mid pipe nuts and let it do its thing.

- Impact wrench for the mid pipe nuts & O2 sensors.

- O2 Sensor split socket.

When removing the downpipe, all the turbo studs can be reached from above. No need to remove the lower motor mount IMHO. Just remove the intercooler resonator piping from the hard pipe to the turbo. This will give you room to wrench on two of the three stud nuts on reinstall.

Remove the battery, intake, ECU, battery tray and the shifter linkage bracket. Leave the linkage attached at the clips but remove the retaining pin on both at the transmission. This will give you all the room you need to use a 10" extension to get to all 3 factory studs. Easy going.

Disconnect the O2 sensor wiring and leave them in place when you remove the factory downpipe. Remove them when the downpipe is off the car.

Do not mount the turbo flange adapter to the downpipe before install. Install it first, then mount the v-band and downpipe after the adapter flange is in place and torqued on. Do not tighten down the v-band until you have the downpipe torqued down to the mid pipe. You'll want the play to properly set the angle of the downpipe.

Good luck and enjoy the install. I would rather drop the transmission than do this again. It sucks. Do not attempt it unless you anticipate a stud snapping and have tools to fix.

Next time, I'll remove the turbo and mount the adapter flange to it off the car :D

All in all, great product. I wish SXTH made the studs a little easier to get to around the adapter flange, but I like the v-band and ability to change turbo in the future. That painful lip is a necessary evil and needed for the v-band clamp. If you have no intention of sizing up your turbo, wait for the welded version. It will likely be much easier to install. I had mine Cerakoted, if you do the same - enjoy the awful smell as it heats up for the first time lol. I definitely noticed a good bump in the mid range power band. Won't be worth it until the tune comes in. I knew this, but opted to install now while the car has lower miles. The more miles you have, the more painful the install will be.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Cheers,

Ja
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Good stuff!

I need to get those instructions done haha!
Cheat sheets are good and all, but there is something to be said about figuring it out as you go. Gets you a much better perspective of the car and where things are lol.

Thanks for your help getting me this beauty of a downpipe Cerakoted. Can't wait to get this thing tuned and eventually torn completely down and built :D
 
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