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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey Guys and Gals,

Hope all is well.

I just bought the SXTH Element Rear Sway bar for my 2017 Hyundai Elantra Sport and I thought I would do a nice install thread.

Overall, It was a super easy install. If you are handy and know what you're doing it will take you an hour and a half at the most.

OK, Let's get started.

Disclaimer: This is my first post ever. I included some pictures but I do not know how to organize them in the thread. I apologize if they are a bit out of order but hopefully you will get the point.

The Tools that I used for this project include:

1/2" 18" Breaker Bar (Really didn't need it)

3/8" Ratchet

1/2" to 3/8" Conversion Socket

3/8" - 4" and 12" Extension

3/8" Wobble Extension

Flat Head Screwdriver

17mm Open Wrench

6mm Hex Key

Sockets all 3/8"
12mm
14mm
17mm deep

1/2" Electric Impact Gun



The Sway bar kit from SXTH Element includes:
The Rear Sway Bar
(5) Washers
(2) Polyurethane Bushings
(2) Brackets
1 tube of lube ;)



First step is to get the car jacked up.
Luckily, I got a new jack the other day and I get plenty of height / work space



Next is to remove the factory sway bar.

I started by loosening all of the bolts that secure the sway bar with the breaker bar.

These bolts include:

The four 14mm bolts holding the sway bar to the frame of the vehicle
The two 12mm bolts securing the end links to the rear control arms






I included the wobble extension because there are 2 14mm bolts that will be much easier to unbolt if you have one. Not that they are impossible to get if you don't have the wobble extension but it certainly makes it easier.

Now, I mentioned that I used the breaker bar to loosen the bolts but it was not really needed. All of the bolts were tight but could have been easily loosened with the 3/8" ratchet. This concerned me a bit because I was always taught that suspension bolts should be hella tight. I made sure to tighten everything to my liking when I put the new sway bar in.

Once everything was loosened I fully removed all the bolts.

After you remove the 2 bolts that connect the end links to the lower control arms, take the end links and turn them up so it is easier to wiggle the sway bar out. It will take a bit of maneuvering but the sway bar should come out pretty easily.

I took a picture comparing the two sway bars. Definitely see a difference in size so hopefully I should feel a big difference.




Once you have the sway bar removed from the vehicle, the next step is to switch the end links onto the new sway bar. If you need to, take a picture so that you know how they need to be orientated on the new sway bar.

If you were smart enough to print out the instructions from SXTH Generation, they actually recommend to put the sway bar in a vice grip and use the 17mm open wrench and the hex key to remove the end links from the factory sway bar and re-attach them to the new sway bar.



I was lazy and used the electric impact gun and the deep 17mm socket to just get it loose. After that you can use the 6mm hex key and the 17mm open wrench to get the nut off the rest of the way.

When I put the end links on the new sway bar I just used the impact gun to tighten it and double checked it with the hex key and wrench.

That is pretty much it for the hard (not really hard) stuff.

Make sure to lube the bushings on the inside and outside where it makes contact with both the brackets and the sway bar.



Put the bushings onto the bar and then re-position the bar back underneath the car and thread all of the bolt back in.

Make sure to put the included washers on the 14mm bolts that secure the sway bar to the frame of the vehicle.



DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN ANY BOLTS UNTIL YOU HAVE THEM ALL THREADED IN.

This includes the 4 14mm bolts securing the sway bar to the frame of the vehicle and the 2 12mm bolts holding the end links to the lower control arms.

If you tighten any of the bolts before threading them all in, it makes it difficult to do the final positioning of the bar.

I included the flat head screwdriver because it helps to position the end links to get the bolt in easily.

Once you have all of the bolts in, do a final positioning. Make sure there is equal space in between the end links and the rear springs (on both sides). Once you are happy with the positioning feel free to tighten all of the bolts.

CAUTION: I AM NOT INCLUDING ANY TORQUE SPECS. I TIGHTENED THEM TO A POINT THAT I FELT WAS SATISFACTORY. DO NOT BLAME ME IF YOU OVER TIGHTEN AND STRIP A BOLT/THREADS.

And that is it guys. Like I said, super easy modification to do.

And what a difference. It feels like the rear end of the vehicle hugs the road or just has better traction. The back end follows the front end into turns and overall I am very satisfied with this modification.

As always, I recommend going back after a few days and re-tightening everything as suspension bolts have a tendency to loosen a bit as the part breaks in.

Hope you enjoyed the thread. Comment if I missed something. Take care Guys.
 

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Well done sir. I've made thousands of work instructions in my career and this is top notch!
 
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