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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Per SCCA STH class rules I am allowed to replace the stock intercooler. However, that is all you are allowed to replace. Stock boost piping must remain and you are not allowed to modify body panels in any way to accommodate. The closest option we have is the SXTH intercooler, but the inlet/outlet are 2.5" where as the stock piping is 2". So I had to come up with a plan. Now, unfortunately I had to remove/modify the stock rubber couplers that attach to the stock intercooler but it is what it is. On a national level I think someone in the STH class that wanted to make a fuss might have a case should they protest it, but my local group is small and there is hardly ever anyone else in my class so it should be OK. I tried my best to remain within the strict rules but there was no way I wasn't installing an intercooler in preparation for the Arizona summer heat.

Anyway, to do this, you will need:


  • SXTH intercooler core (contact them and they can get you pricing)
  • x1 45 degree 2.5" to 2" reducer coupler
  • x1 90 degree 2.5" to 2" reducer coupler
  • x1 2" joiner pipe
  • x2 2.5" t-bolt clamps
  • x3 2" t-bolt clamps

The 45 degree reducer is for the drivers side. It will require some minor trimming. The 90 degree reducer remains intact, I did find it a pain to get on the intercooler. It will have to be installed such that it is pointing down slightly, I would say around the 8 o'clock position. The joiner pipe goes in the 90 degree reducer. The long rubber coupler on the passenger side will need to be trimmed on both ends to work here. Even then I ended up with a very slight kink in the tube but it's soft enough that under boost it will expand and remove the kink. The A/C lines are close but you can make it work. At minimum you'll need the 5 t-bolt clamps listed above but I would recommend replacing as many as you can.

The drivers side is perfect.



The passenger side ideally would work better if the inlet on the intercooler was about 1" shorter. But it can work as-is.

 
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