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Discussion Starter #1
So I installed some led bulbs to the front and they turned out great. Installation was easy, took less than a minute.


However, I'm having trouble changing the rear turn signals. I just can't pull the f'in assembly out, I can only wiggle it. The manual says to take out the two bolts, and pop it out. Obviously it's not that easy... or is it? Is there something I'm doing wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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I have a 2017 ES and it worked fine for me. Sorry you are having so many problems trying to remove you light assembly.
 

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I am also having trouble removing the rear tail lights. I watched that video (the only one I can find) so many times and it still nada.

I am willing to send $50 to anyone who can document their way of taking it out from a US spec Elantra Sport :D
 

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So I went to my dealership and asked them about it. They told me it's difficult and I'd have to remove my rear bumper to get it out. $80 they asked, so apparently it's not that easy. Are they lying?
 

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The rear bumper cannot be removed with the lights in place as the bumper is secured under the light, I would say the dealership just want your money.
 

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So I went to my dealership and asked them about it. They told me it's difficult and I'd have to remove my rear bumper to get it out. $80 they asked, so apparently it's not that easy. Are they lying?
Yes. You don't need to remove the rear bumper to remove the tail lights.
 

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So I went to my dealership and asked them about it. They told me it's difficult and I'd have to remove my rear bumper to get it out. $80 they asked, so apparently it's not that easy. Are they lying?
Just curious, how did you add the resistor for your front led turn signals?

Is your Elantra Sport 2018 model year? Mine happens to the 2018 and it is impossible for me to pull the darn tail light out. I literally try everything besides smashing it...
 

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Just curious, how did you add the resistor for your front led turn signals?

Is your Elantra Sport 2018 model year? Mine happens to the 2018 and it is impossible for me to pull the darn tail light out. I literally try everything besides smashing it...
They're the exact same tail lights.
 

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I feel the OP’s pain on this issue as I’m in the same boat with this. I know exactly what it is. I still haven’t been able to remove mine to date. The problem appears to be the clear plastic portion that holds the barbs on the taillight (note part number in the link).

https://www.hyundaipartsdeal.com/genuine/hyundai-fastener-t-gate-glas~87126-2e000.html?Make=Hyundai&Model=Elantra&Year=2017&Submodel=Korean+made&Filter=()&Location=rear-combination-lamp,9192413,87126

I don’t know if it’s b/c of the low quality of the plastic fastener cups or what...but for some of us having this issue, I think somehow they deformed during transit to the USA, or maybe they’re using a different manufacture for the fasteners, or maybe even a different type of plastic which isn’t as soft as a previous generations....but there clearly is a problem.

There’s another fastener that could be the issue as well, but I doubt it is considering it’s a sliding type (refer to link below).

https://www.hyundaipartsdeal.com/genuine/hyundai-mounting-clip-rear-combi~92485-a7000.html?Make=Hyundai&Model=Elantra&Year=2017&Submodel=Korean+made&Filter=()&Location=rear-combination-lamp,9192413,92486

My advice and most likely what I’ll be doing next - order the parts from your dealer (the cup type of fasteners listed in the first link above), pick them up from the dealer once they’re in stock if they weren’t when you placed the order, (do this at your own risk, but this is what I be doing very soon), take a lighter/ add heat to the 4 cup type fasteners (2 on each taillight). Go slowly and have someone else start to wiggle the taillight out.

Your old clips might be useless after finally being able to free the twilight, and that’s okay. Replace them with the parts listed above and you should be all good. Also, see if the dealer will match the price from that site since they’re part of Hyundai. If they don’t match the price, well...dude, oh-well. Each retainer is like a buck. Worse case scenario, you’re out ~$10 for all the fasteners.

^^ Dont be a mooch with the information shared. Forums work best when the members give updates through results. Hopefully you will come back and share with the community how you resolved the problem. Best of luck and you can always send me a private message if I’m not online at the time you’re on. Later!
 

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I wouldn't really call it a problem. They're not really designed to be removed easily.
 

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I feel the OP’s pain on this issue as I’m in the same boat with this. I know exactly what it is. I still haven’t been able to remove mine to date. The problem appears to be the clear plastic portion that holds the barbs on the taillight (note part number in the link).

https://www.hyundaipartsdeal.com/genuine/hyundai-fastener-t-gate-glas~87126-2e000.html?Make=Hyundai&Model=Elantra&Year=2017&Submodel=Korean+made&Filter=()&Location=rear-combination-lamp,9192413,87126

I don’t know if it’s b/c of the low quality of the plastic fastener cups or what...but for some of us having this issue, I think somehow they deformed during transit to the USA, or maybe they’re using a different manufacture for the fasteners, or maybe even a different type of plastic which isn’t as soft as a previous generations....but there clearly is a problem.

There’s another fastener that could be the issue as well, but I doubt it is considering it’s a sliding type (refer to link below).

https://www.hyundaipartsdeal.com/genuine/hyundai-mounting-clip-rear-combi~92485-a7000.html?Make=Hyundai&Model=Elantra&Year=2017&Submodel=Korean+made&Filter=()&Location=rear-combination-lamp,9192413,92486

My advice and most likely what I’ll be doing next - order the parts from your dealer (the cup type of fasteners listed in the first link above), pick them up from the dealer once they’re in stock if they weren’t when you placed the order, (do this at your own risk, but this is what I be doing very soon), take a lighter/ add heat to the 4 cup type fasteners (2 on each taillight). Go slowly and have someone else start to wiggle the taillight out.

Your old clips might be useless after finally being able to free the twilight, and that’s okay. Replace them with the parts listed above and you should be all good. Also, see if the dealer will match the price from that site since they’re part of Hyundai. If they don’t match the price, well...dude, oh-well. Each retainer is like a buck. Worse case scenario, you’re out ~$10 for all the fasteners.

^^ Dont be a mooch with the information shared. Forums work best when the members give updates through results. Hopefully you will come back and share with the community how you resolved the problem. Best of luck and you can always send me a private message if I’m not online at the time you’re on. Later!
That was my other thoughts too. Those plastic clips can be replaced easily. I am planning to do what you mentioned and warm up the plastic clips and go from there. If the tail lights still won't budge then I'll just destroy and replace them afterwards. Thanks for the part numbers, I'll reply back to this thread when I perform your suggestion.
 

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I wouldn't really call it a problem. They're not really designed to be removed easily.
My opinion is slightly the opposite on this as to your final statement. The nuts on the bolts on the interior should be enough in case of a car accident/ whatnot without the taillights becoming loose/ coming off the vehicle.

Wild guess here, but I think hyundai made it a little difficult because they know those that ventured into the removal process would like to convert to full LED. Also, think about this...it’s such a PITA that if the taillight was more of a simple design to change a burned out bulb, why did Hyundai design it so the entire taillight has to be removed?

It’s not like this on the Sonata as I recall. Manufacturers on a larger scale will usually design an access hole so just the harness from the taillight needs to be removed in order to fix a burned out bulb.

That was my other thoughts too. Those plastic clips can be replaced easily. I am planning to do what you mentioned and warm up the plastic clips and go from there. If the tail lights still won't budge then I'll just destroy and replace them afterwards. Thanks for the part numbers, I'll reply back to this thread when I perform your suggestion.
Cool, cool and you’re welcome. It might sound funny, but I’ve actually talked to the car mumbling, ‘come on baby, just let go’. Such a PITA. My time has been limited over the holidays...hence my litmied freetime to finally go at this.

Yeah, please do post your results. I’m so frustrated with this situation.
 

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Cool, cool and you’re welcome. It might sound funny, but I’ve actually talked to the car mumbling, ‘come on baby, just let go’. Such a PITA. My time has been limited over the holidays...hence my litmied freetime to finally go at this.

Yeah, please do post your results. I’m so frustrated with this situation.
That literally me. wow. Talking and begging to a **** tail light.

I just ordered those plastic holder parts you listed. I'll sure document my destruction when they come.

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Can anyone answer my questions about the front turn signals? How did you guys add the resistors to it when the contacts are within the bulb holder? Are there some hidden wires that I'm not seeing?
 

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Can anyone answer my questions about the front turn signals? How did you guys add the resistors to it when the contacts are within the bulb holder? Are there some hidden wires that I'm not seeing?
Yet again here’s another intresting method Hyundai went to creat their headlight design for the Sport model. I’m willing to bet they knew people would desire a LED replacement here as well.

Okay, maybe this will help ya out if you’re willing to spend the $80 <— and it should have most if not all the answers to your questions be it present date or at some point into the future. My personal opinion is that Hyundai made more of the other model trims (the LTD and SE) more of a focal point through the repair shop manual than the Sport model as there tends to be some areas missing for the Sport model.

Anyways, here’s the link to purchase the shop manual which should help you out if you intend to take care of your vehicle through DIY repairs/ mods.

https://www.factory-manuals.com/expand-hyundai-elantra-2017-factory-repair-manual-482.html

I have the full shop manual. It’s very useful at times. I’ve used it a bunch of times including the torque specs portions and whatnot.

That part you’re referring to...the bulb assembly holder, well...here’s my thoughts - I’m going to review the car wiring through the shop manual and see if I can tap into it closer to the fuse box, or I’ll just purchase x2 bulb assembly holders and notch out the side we’re the electrical contact points are and solder the resistor there. It won’t look as clean soldering the resistors near the bulb holder so I’m thinking of tapping into the wires closer to the fuse box where it can be more hidden.

https://www.hyundaipartsdeal.com/genuine/hyundai-holder-assy-fr-t-sig~92166-3k000.html?Make=Hyundai&Model=Elantra&Year=2017&Submodel=Korean+made&Filter=()&Location=headlamp,9192113,92170C
 
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