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I impatient to get a tune for my ES but I I have a question for the ones knows about that.

With all the different options available soon: LAP3, Tork, Sxth, BTR, what can be different between each of them in the real world?

What is important when you choose a tune?

LAP3 seem to be popular here in Canada but I plan to wait what all others will offer before take a decision.
 

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I impatient to get a tune for my ES but I I have a question for the ones knows about that.

With all the different options available soon: LAP3, Tork, Sxth, BTR, what can be different between each of them in the real world?

What is important when you choose a tune?

LAP3 seem to be popular here in Canada but I plan to wait what all others will offer before take a decision.
Well Lap3 and I think BTR are the only ones that actually have a tune available at the moment. (I know BTR is tuning cars, not sure if they have one for purchase yet) As far as what the differences are, hopefully they would explain the features of their tunes on their websites and that should give you enough info to make a decision as to what suits you best. Asking on a forum will pretty much just get you personal opinions and most people will tell you to go with the one they purchased. I'd say as long as the features are good and nobody's cars are blowing up, any of them will be just fine.
 

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Based on prior car experience, you're better off in these more tailored tuners that are active in that car's community; ones that put the time to really know the car, and what works best. One's that can be interacted with, for advice, and have that direct knowledge of how upgrades parts respond, and how best to take advantage of them since it's their stuff.

You also got to support the shops willing to develop for a car that is not mainstream.


I'm growing impatient too, nevertheless, I'll be waiting for Tork or SXTH. Hopefully, they aren't too far out.
 

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Essentially all tuners are modifying the same maps in the ECU. What matters is how they do it.

The "best" tune is highly subjective. Is it the one that has the highest peak gain? The one that has the most power under the curve but makes less overall power? Is it the tune that makes less power than another (under the same conditions) but is advertised as "safer?"

It depends on who you ask, and what you know about how an engine should work.

Ideally (in my opinion), you want as much power as possible without knocking, while being as smooth as possible.
The powerband at WOT should be broad and pretty flat for Torque, and HP should increase all the way to redline.

To give you a very rough example, you could have one tuner who commands 12:1 Air/Fuel ratio at full throttle and another that commands 11.5:1.
One guy says 12:1 makes more power and is still plenty safe, but the other guy goes hey that's dangerous because it's leaner.
Then the 12:1 guy replies with hey it's tested time and time again and everything is running great what's the problem?

There you have a difference in professional opinion that could go on forever. If you are one of those hobbyist guys who have tuned yourself and you have your own experiences, what happens if you disagree with both tuners? there's another can of worms lol

If you want to evaluate your options, I'd wait until all the companies you listed release their documentation.

Look at their information and how it's presented. Compare dyno charts, compare numbers, if you care about details like air fuel ratios, see if they will divulge any of that information.

and that's just for WOT tuning.

for part throttle and everyday driving changes, that's something a little more difficult to document. That's something you have to try and "feel" in my opinion, because that could vary between tuners by a big degree because that is mostly done thru experience and their professional opinion on what's "right."
 

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My main question would be what type of durability testing is done by tuners.

How do tuners determine the failure modes / weak links of the engine?

Do tuners actually blow engines up as a part of testing?

I'd imagine Hyundai engineers have blown up engines, of course all they have to do is go get another engine off the shelf. Tuners don't have that luxury.
 
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My main question would be what type of durability testing is done by tuners.

How do tuners determine the failure modes / weak links of the engine?

Do tuners actually blow engines up as a part of testing?

I'd imagine Hyundai engineers have blown up engines, of course all they have to do is go get another engine off the shelf. Tuners don't have that luxury.
I haven't seen any tuner (especially in this market) PURPOSELY try blow an engine.

You're testing the durability of the engine at that point, and your ability to tune for maximum power. That has little merit on a "general" tune most people would buy without being in a dyno session.

If I had the time and the budget to just blow an engine up, I would. Then you have the cost of maximizing power at the expense of:

Blowing up on stock turbo with too lean Air/Fuel
Blowing up on stock turbo from too much ignition timing
Blowing up on stock turbo with maximum amount of boost
Blowing up on stock turbo with a combination of all of the above
Blowing up on bigger turbo with too lean Air/Fuel
Blowing up on bigger turbo from too much ignition timing
Blowing up on bigger turbo with maximum amount of boost
Blowing up on bigger turbo with a combination of all of the above

That amount of development can get real expensive real quick. Usually it's baby steps over numerous miles until we hit a hardware limit (turbo capability for example)

Without the design documentation of the powertrain engineers, I have no clue the factor of safety built into the rotating assembly.
The only way to know is to make as much power for as long as you can until failure, then open it up and perform RCA.

You're not going to come close to that with an "off the shelf" tune from any of us.
 

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Without the design documentation of the powertrain engineers, I have no clue the factor of safety built into the rotating assembly.
The only way to know is to make as much power for as long as you can until failure, then open it up and perform RCA.
That's what I'm curious about.

Where are these engines on the robustness scale with something like a Toyota 2JZ at the top and any early 80s turbo car at the bottom?

Anything noteworthy about the engines' construction, good or bad? What kind of internals does it have, forged anything?
 
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That's what I'm curious about.

Where are these engines on the robustness scale with something like a Toyota 2JZ at the top and any early 80s turbo car at the bottom?

Anything noteworthy about the engines' construction, good or bad? What kind of internals does it have, forged anything?
That's a pretty big, loaded question there haha

IMO, they would be in the 60-70th percentile. You can almost double the OEM power and keep it like that for a while.

I don't know if any of the rotating assembly is forged, haven't been able to read anything like that as of yet.
 
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