[Dandufunk]

Hi All,

Can someone please confirm for me which hose goes where regarding the Wastegate solenoid?

I totally forgot to take pics when I removed the stock one...

A - to turbo compressor housing
B - to wastegate actuator


Thanks guys!!!
Dan

 

[Dandufunk]

Bump...

 

[Dandufunk]

Bump for wastegate solenoid help...!
Sorry autocorect fail on topic heading 😞

 

[R1600Turbo]

Image is correct.

 

[Dandufunk]

Thanks R1600!

 

[JxBar1995]

hey guys, do any of you know where to connect the new MAC wastegate solenoid lines from Sxth element... web page doesn’t say which one is 2 or 3 or A & B thanks

 

[Dandufunk]

If you're looking at it flat on a table.

Front port is FROM the turbo housing
Left port goes to wastegate
Right port is vented

Make sure you do not extend the length of the vacuum lines too much, you will get overboosting like I have. Shorter is better.

Also if you can, swap the MAC valve for the Borg Warner, WAY BETTER.

 

[R1600Turbo]

Make sure you do not extend the length of the vacuum lines too much, you will get overboosting like I have. Shorter is better.

I relocated mine further up to get it out of the heat and haven't had this issue.

 

[Dandufunk]

Have you got a boost gauge?

Mine sometimes hits around 1.7 to 1.9bar sometimes on a spirited drive then cuts boost.
Got an electronic gauge plumbed into the vac source before the BoV line.

 

[R1600Turbo]

Have you got a boost gauge?

Mine sometimes hits around 1.7 to 1.9bar sometimes on a spirited drive then cuts boost.
Got an electronic gauge plumbed into the vac source before the BoV line.

Yep. On my Lap3 tune was hitting ~23psi (1.6 bar?) but now on stock tune again hitting the standard 18psi (1.2 bar?) Never had any boost cuts but recently had a throttle cut due to the tune being too aggressive, hence why I removed it. My boost gauge is attached directly to the intake manifold using a SXTH vacuum block.

 

[Dandufunk]

Sorry I should clarify to "cut" I'm referring to is like the engine sneezes, revs drop and so does boost. I'm not sure if it's the throttle that's closing or boost bein cut, bit it's not nice.
The whole car jerks.
This is also after I had my tune, de-tuned as the initial Stage 1 tune was doing this quite often as well as hitting, in my opinion unsafe boost levels.
Could also be inherent of have a tuned DCT version of this car, e.g. boost continuing to climb during a gear shift

 

[R1600Turbo]

Another issue I was getting with my tune was what another tuner described as "rapid misfires". Usually happened after a hard 1-2 shift, the throttle would cut out, boost would cut, and the car sounded like it was cutting fuel or timing or hitting some sort of limiter. Managed to catch one on video and that's how the diagnosis was made as rapid misfires. Needless to say I went back to stock. Lap3 has volunteered to fix the issue by reducing boost and timing but I'm actually going to switch to another tuner.

 

[mone]

If you're DCT, I suggest you do either a custom tune via Dyno, or SXTH tune, via datalogging. Getting a canned tuned that is the one you have is detrimental to your DCT. R1600T knows who I am, and I just had my clutches replaced that yes, there was a TSB for it recommending I change to the newer friction material. But the tune that I had installed prematurely caused my clutches to fail. I have low kms (32,000KMS). If I do get my car tuned in the future, it will be BTR's former tuner, who gets flown in 3 times a year from Korea to a local shop here that tunes via dyno (which I was originally going to do, but always been away when they had the events), or SXTH, as I've one of their tuned cars. Now the SXTH tune is custom as well, and is being done as per the owner's preferences. In short, a lot of jerking that you feel can be your clutches not coping with the torque spikes from the small turbo. And the tune that you have makes all it's power low in the RPM range. Drive with caution...