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Hyundai reccomends you do a couple things over the first 1,000 km to "break in the engine" but was anybody actually able to
take it easy the first 1,000? I have got up to like 4000 rpm like 5 times during the break in and I just floored it tonight but im at 930 KM so I think
I am fine, but it was so hard to take it easy in this car over the first 1,000 because of how quick it is.

Hopefully it lasts me until like 250,000 - 300,000 kilometers because I love this car!
 

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I Didn't use cruise control for first 1000kms and I made sure to vary the rpm when driving. I also changed the oil pretty early on.

Gave it the odd squirt and didn't rev the crap out of it.

Only had it since February and have already clocked up over 12000kms.
 
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My work commute doesn't allow me to vary the RPM's much. I drive to the outskirts of town and then set the cruise control for another 18 miles. I did try to stay under 4k RPM's though, and stayed out of boost as much as I could. Almost at 28k miles now and have had zero issues.
 

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I didnt sadly. I did my best but i floored it a few diff times but with the 280 kms on it when i got it im sure the dealer/ test drivers didnt go super easy on it so is what it is 200 k comes warranty is done and i trade in for a 2021 or so
 

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I'm pretty sure I didn't do a good job. However I know folks on the freeway were kinda pissed as I'd vary the best I could. I didn't do a good job on the oil change. Although one thing I did learn is most modern car manufacturers, including Hyundai, do an initial break-in with the motor in the factor for ~600-1500 miles where they run the engine with clean oil being constantly recirculated at varying RPM's in order to cut down on the issues from folks like myself being idiots about their first new owned car. They still keep the break-in rules in the owners manual to cover their bases.

I'm pretty proud of my previous vehicles lifespan, still kicking after adding 150,000 miles to my already 117,000 miles and it was running rough and ugly when I got it. Last time I drove it (to the hyundai dealership) it was running as buttery smooth as my uneducated in cars DIY mentality as I could muster. The Hyundai sales person actually took his time, off the clock after his shift, in order to drive my old beater back to my house which was 3 towns over and I gave him a ride back to the dealership. Currently has ~270,000 (haven't really driven it since I got my sport in Dec 2017) and I'm a bit ashamed of myself for slacking on the initial oil changes for my sport. But I got synthetic in my elantra sport now so I'm happy.
 

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I didnt sadly. I did my best but i floored it a few diff times but with the 280 kms on it when i got it im sure the dealer/ test drivers didnt go super easy on it so is what it is 200 k comes warranty is done and i trade in for a 2021 or so
I was in the same boat and had 282km on mine when I got it. I was gentle up to 1000km, but I'm sure that wasn't the case before I got it.
 

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I will say that friends of mine and I did a little experiment in 2011. We both bought E92 M3's at the time and both did European deliveries on them. I drop mine hard, autobahn runs, Nurburgring etc. He babied his. After 10,000kms we both dyno's the cars and mine was making more power and ran smoother under hard track abuse. I believe that the rings seat better under harder load and the bearings break in better if you plan to drive the car hard. I could be wrong, there is alot of theories. A race motor for example: my engine builder told my break in prodecure was as follows: 30min session of hard load to redline, next 5 min cool down, 30mins session of the same hard load to redline, 10min cool down run. Done.

Everyone has there own ideas, when i saw them building my M3 motor in Munich they were on dynos running them hard to redline to check for failures, the engineer on the tour said they run them for 1hr hard before they go into the cars.
 

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I will say that friends of mine and I did a little experiment in 2011. We both bought E92 M3's at the time and both did European deliveries on them. I drop mine hard, autobahn runs, Nurburgring etc. He babied his. After 10,000kms we both dyno's the cars and mine was making more power and ran smoother under hard track abuse. I believe that the rings seat better under harder load and the bearings break in better if you plan to drive the car hard. I could be wrong, there is alot of theories. A race motor for example: my engine builder told my break in prodecure was as follows: 30min session of hard load to redline, next 5 min cool down, 30mins session of the same hard load to redline, 10min cool down run. Done.

Everyone has there own ideas, when i saw them building my M3 motor in Munich they were on dynos running them hard to redline to check for failures, the engineer on the tour said they run them for 1hr hard before they go into the cars.
My thoughts on that would be that the engine wore in faster, making it appear to be in better shape. But that could in turn make it wear out faster. Sort of hit it's "peak" of life expectancy earlier than the other one.
 

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I was pretty religious about it by staying between 1500-4000 rpm, following shift suggestions, and varying speed on highways. I felt a little sorry for my clutch though since I was just learning stick and was driving through snowstorms. Stalled quite a few times every day... it's probably fine.
 

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I gunned mine the first time almost to redline at 250 miles.. completely without thinking. After that I didn't worry about it. 19,650 miles later and no issues (at least not related to that). Surprised to see it does not use/burn a single drop of oil in the 6000 OCI.
 
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